The Hills Are Alive With the Sound of Music

Thought some of you would like this title, but it is also apt because Lusaka is both hilly and full of music. In fact, one of the things I love about this place is the sounds. All kinds of sounds are interesting - just as the sights and smells differ radically from life in Canada, the sounds are also different. I often wish I had a tape recorder along with me so I could record some of these moments, take a "photograph" of the audio world. Alas, I don't have the technology, so I will have to resort to reporting on it, in particular music.

I regularly hear music, even when just biking to school. There are often church choirs, or funeral gatherings, singing, practicing, and praising God. If it has been stereotyped that Mennonites can sing well, the same can be said for Zambians. When I listen to the choir at church I often think that this group could easily be recorded and sold on a CD. Every church I've been to - I think I've been to six different denominations now - had wonderful singing. Some sing acapella, others with the accompaniment of a keyboard but the sound is always wonderful. The combination of powerful bass voices with soaring sopranos, usually accentuated by some ululations from the audience, combine for a wonderful listening experience. The singing portion is definitely my favourite part of the church service. Although I have no idea what we are singing about (I presume its about God, but that's about all I know) I do recognize good music when I hear it.

Zambian pop music, the stuff that people listen to most on the radio (although gospel music also has a very strong presence) all sounds basically the same. High on artificial synth music, low on anything to do with an instrument. When describing Zambian music to one colleague I was listing the different major musicians and after each I concluded that "he sounds like K'Millian." K'Millian is, from what I can tell, the IT performer on the Zambian scene. I have purchased a small collection of the most popular singers which I will bring home in order to relive my Zambian days. At some point I will get some church music to round out my collection.

The sound of music then is one of many on the list of defining experiences this year. To walk down the street and hear choirs practicing, people on the back of a truck singing for joy or sadness, and to hear music pouring out of churches throughout the city has been an unforgettable experience.