I had no idea what to expect out of this Christmas season. I occasionally would ask people what was done here for Christmas but the answers were usually vague and not terribly helpful so as the season approached I was still in the dark as to what was about to happen.
The first Christmassy things occurred when I spent my Saturday with my host parents in two absolutely packed grocery stores buying food for Monday. This marathon shopping trip, which took about six hours from start to finish, netted us a lot of food, some fire crackers, and an artificial Christmas tree.
Saturday also marked a crisis point for my Christmas. I had been told by a few different people in my family that there was no tradition of gift giving in their family. Since I had received the information from multiple sources I was feeling pretty confident in my decision that I was in the clear and would not need to find gifts for the numerous family members (this also would have been difficult because people come and go with some regularity, especially during the holiday season. There would have been no way of knowing who exactly required a gift). On the evening of the 23rd, however, I thought that, just in case, I should ask my host father one last time. "Oh, yes, we do gifts," he said. As my heart palpitated I asked, "so should I have gifts ready for Christmas?" The response was yes. Shoot! I was told that gifts would be done on the afternoon of Christmas Eve. This did not give me a lot of time to prepare.
After much frantic thinking I developed a plan. I had enough things to cover myself for the rest of the family, I figured, as long as I could get a soccer ball for the little boys. So on Christmas Eve before church I went to the market in search of a soccer ball. None was to be found. It was time to move to Plan B. I figured I would give the boys some Chicco biscuits (cookies) with the promise of a soccer ball to come on Tuesday. The problem was solved, at least temporarily.
The Christmas Eve church service was pretty much like any other, although much of the singing was familiar Christmas songs. These, however, were translated into Nyanja. Fortunately, they all appeared in the song book and so I could easily sing along, even if I wasn't always sure what I was singing. The sermon, I presume, was something Christmas related but I can't be sure because I didn't understand any of it (I busied myself reading the short New Testament letters).
After church I was dreading the gift moment. It never came, however. The rest of the day passed as if nothing was out of the ordinary. It must be coming on Christmas Day, I figured.
There was a Christmas morning service but I was assigned to stay home to cook. Males don't cook in Zambian society, but I had made my family a "Canadian" meal once (spaghetti) and they asked me to cook them a Christmas dinner Canadian-style. I was a little disappointed to miss the Christmas service - maybe this was where a Zambian Christmas would finally reveal itself - but when those who went returned 5 hours later (from a service that was supposed to take an hour) I was glad that I had been assigned to stay behind. We had searched high and low for a turkey but none was to be found so I made roast chicken, stuffing, cooked beans and carrots, and seasoned potatoes. One interesting side note is that we have no cooking dishes but pots so everything had to be stuck in the oven in pots.
I finished cooking at about 13:30 and just as I was leaving the kitchen the girls of the family came in and started to cook. In addition to our chicken dinner we also had plenty of rice, beef, pasta and sauce, potato salad, cabbage salad, and a cake. While waiting for this food to be prepared we did what Zambians love to do - watch TV. Some programming was OK - the South African adaptation of Dickens's "Christmas Carol" was well done. Others, such as a half-hour infomercial on a local grocery store were less exciting. We ate at about 16:30ish, a long wait after having breakfast at 9:00!
In the evening we dropped off a family who had visited for the day and then settled in to the TV shows we watch every week day. One of the boys even asked me to tutor him with his Grade 7 Social Studies. I was shocked - here it was Christmas Day and he wanted to be taught! I told him to wait till the next day.
Back to the gifts. There was no moment of giving. No one gave any one a gift either big or small. So at the end of the day I gave a gift to my family as a whole - a Christmas book from Canada - that was very much appreciated.
Christmas, therefore, was pretty much a normal day. The only difference was that I was home all day instead of being at work. By the end of the day I was so happy, though. Normally I experience joy because it is Christmas. This year I experienced joy because Christmas was finally over. The days preceeding it had been pretty tough as far as homesickness goes so I was happy to have it done with. I could finally move on with regular life.
While Christmas might have been a bit of a let down, I'm told that the real celebration is at New Years. Since I am not one that usually does a whole lot for this occassion I am sure that I will get more than normal. Even if Christmas here is nothing to write home about, I'm thinking that New Years will be and am really looking forward to it.
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
Friday, December 22, 2006
My Vacation
Last week was the MCC retreat. A good time was had in contemplation and in talking with the other SALTers and IVEPers. It was very interesting country side around where the retreat took place, alongside Lake Kariba. On the way there it was very hilly and the vegetation differed from the regular scrub bushes that one sees in abundance here. The villages appeared to be very poor. I kept expecting Rod Black or Fred Penner to come out of the huts filming a World Vision infomercial.
On one day we visited one of the worlds largest crocodile farms, home of 90,000 Nile Crocodiles. Croc farming is apparently quite a complex process and needs to be very scientifically regulated. For example, the temperature at which the eggs are kept determines the sex of the offspring (females is 32 degrees, males is 40 degrees). Also, the first egg to hatch makes a sound to signal to the others that it is time to come out. This means that if you have a room full of eggs you have to be on the ball or otherwise the whole room will want to start hatching, premature or not. I got to hold one of the young ones - now I can say I have held a crocodile. Once the crocs are four or five years old they are butchered for their skin and meat.
We also visited the breeding ground where the big ones live. They can live up to 100 years old and get very huge. We got to watch as chunks of cow were thrown at the crocodiles. A great experience! Their huge teeth just went right through the bones!
We also took a sunset cruise on Lake Kariba. This started off slowly as we got stuck on a submerged tree only metres from the start. After much effort, a group of locals managed to lift the boat off the obstacle and the cruise could be under way. Kariba is a massive artificial lake that was created when the British dammed the Zambezi River. Our base was on an inlet and it took us an hour on the boat just to get out to the main part of the lake. The people who lived there were given a sum total of 3 pounds while their traditions and livelihoods were completely uprooted. Sounds like a fair trade.
On one day we visited one of the worlds largest crocodile farms, home of 90,000 Nile Crocodiles. Croc farming is apparently quite a complex process and needs to be very scientifically regulated. For example, the temperature at which the eggs are kept determines the sex of the offspring (females is 32 degrees, males is 40 degrees). Also, the first egg to hatch makes a sound to signal to the others that it is time to come out. This means that if you have a room full of eggs you have to be on the ball or otherwise the whole room will want to start hatching, premature or not. I got to hold one of the young ones - now I can say I have held a crocodile. Once the crocs are four or five years old they are butchered for their skin and meat.
We also visited the breeding ground where the big ones live. They can live up to 100 years old and get very huge. We got to watch as chunks of cow were thrown at the crocodiles. A great experience! Their huge teeth just went right through the bones!
We also took a sunset cruise on Lake Kariba. This started off slowly as we got stuck on a submerged tree only metres from the start. After much effort, a group of locals managed to lift the boat off the obstacle and the cruise could be under way. Kariba is a massive artificial lake that was created when the British dammed the Zambezi River. Our base was on an inlet and it took us an hour on the boat just to get out to the main part of the lake. The people who lived there were given a sum total of 3 pounds while their traditions and livelihoods were completely uprooted. Sounds like a fair trade.
For the past several days we have been in Livingstone and area. We stayed at Fawlty Towers - a backpackers place that I would highly recommend to anyone expecting to visit the Livingstone area (since that is probably none of you, the recommendation is a bit of a moot point but I give it nonetheless). The rooms were cheap, clean, and well maintained, there was a swimming pool, satellite TV, free internet, and, best of all, the activities we wanted were all easily booked and we were picked up straight from the place every morning we had something booked. They sure know how to do tourism well down there.
The first day we visited the Falls and hiked down a steep trail to the bottom of the gorge where we had a picnic lunch. There were plenty of baboons on the way to provide entertainment - including one who ran up and tried to steal Mark's apple (since the baboon had touched it anyway, he didn't feel compelled to eat the rest.) I negotiated for a couple of curios - a rhino and a man. I think I did OK - K5000 ($1.25) for a nicely carved face and K13500 ($4.30ish) for the rhino. It is so frustrating dealing with the dealers there because they assume you are a tourist with lots of money. Since I had been to the Lusaka craft market I knew what was a reasonable price (about a third of their starting price) but by the disappointed sound in their voices as I made the deal I think I got them to a respectable price.
One very neat activity we did was a one day canoeing safari on the Zambezi River. This was great although the canoes were actually yellow rubber dinghy type boats - real canoes are called "Canadian style" canoes - a reason for national pride, I figure. It was a great way to see some wildlife - hippos, crocs, elephants, etc. On canoe you have to give the hippo a lot of respect - usually we would cross to almost the other side of the river. It's a good thing we had a guide because often what we thought were rocks would turn out to be hippos or crocodiles. Unfortunately we saw the elephants just at the same time as we hit the biggest rapids on the route so we didn't have much time to watch.
The first day we visited the Falls and hiked down a steep trail to the bottom of the gorge where we had a picnic lunch. There were plenty of baboons on the way to provide entertainment - including one who ran up and tried to steal Mark's apple (since the baboon had touched it anyway, he didn't feel compelled to eat the rest.) I negotiated for a couple of curios - a rhino and a man. I think I did OK - K5000 ($1.25) for a nicely carved face and K13500 ($4.30ish) for the rhino. It is so frustrating dealing with the dealers there because they assume you are a tourist with lots of money. Since I had been to the Lusaka craft market I knew what was a reasonable price (about a third of their starting price) but by the disappointed sound in their voices as I made the deal I think I got them to a respectable price.
One very neat activity we did was a one day canoeing safari on the Zambezi River. This was great although the canoes were actually yellow rubber dinghy type boats - real canoes are called "Canadian style" canoes - a reason for national pride, I figure. It was a great way to see some wildlife - hippos, crocs, elephants, etc. On canoe you have to give the hippo a lot of respect - usually we would cross to almost the other side of the river. It's a good thing we had a guide because often what we thought were rocks would turn out to be hippos or crocodiles. Unfortunately we saw the elephants just at the same time as we hit the biggest rapids on the route so we didn't have much time to watch.
We had a free day during which we went to the Falls area again. We walked to the bridge to watch the bungee jumpers and then continued on to the Zimbabwe side. We walked for quite a ways - until we got to the border post - before checking the cost of a visa ($65) and returning to Zambia. Apparently, visas for Canadians were only $30 quite recently but the Zimbabweans upped it to reciprocate Canadian charges for Zimbabweans.
In the afternoon we had some ultimate rest and relaxation. The backpackers place offered massages for K50,000 ($12.50) so we took in one of those and then settled down to watch an NFL game on the satellite TV.
The last couple days we were on a safari in Chobe National Park in Botswana, about 50 minute drive from here. This is best known for its 65,000 elephants of which we saw plenty. We had a river cruise first which, in addition to hippos, crocs, and birds, also produced thousands of elephants. Later that day, a lion crossed right in front of our path with her two cubs. Mostly there were huge numbers of various antelope - impala, kudu, situtwela (apparently, very rare), puku, and sable (although these were far away). We also saw giraffes, more elephants, warthogs, etc. On our way back to camp we had a bit of an incident with an elephant that didn't particularly like our truck but everything went smoothly. It was neat to sleep in the bush although the guide did warn us about the potential dangers - lions, hyenas, etc. - that awaited us if we had to go to the bathroom in the night.
The second day started off with a disastrous game drive - we didn't see anything but impala all morning. Since impala are a dime a dozen it made for quite a lame and boring time. I have to say though that impala are way nicer than Canadian deer, with whom they would be roughly comparable. Its as if someone went through the whole park and groomed every single impala just for us. We had seen some buffalo tracks only 20m from our campsite but were unable to track them down.
The afternoon boat drive made the day. We found a herd of about 100 buffalo just across the river in Namibia. Then the hippos were all out of the water, where they usually spend the day, grazing because it was a cloudy day. What a great animal. They were definitely Mark and my favourite. A quick hippo fact: they eat 40 kg of grass a day. No wonder they are so fat.
The second day started off with a disastrous game drive - we didn't see anything but impala all morning. Since impala are a dime a dozen it made for quite a lame and boring time. I have to say though that impala are way nicer than Canadian deer, with whom they would be roughly comparable. Its as if someone went through the whole park and groomed every single impala just for us. We had seen some buffalo tracks only 20m from our campsite but were unable to track them down.
The afternoon boat drive made the day. We found a herd of about 100 buffalo just across the river in Namibia. Then the hippos were all out of the water, where they usually spend the day, grazing because it was a cloudy day. What a great animal. They were definitely Mark and my favourite. A quick hippo fact: they eat 40 kg of grass a day. No wonder they are so fat.
Nothing comes cheap when you are doing such things but it was a great time and well worth it. It is nice, however, to be out of the company of rich tourists and back in the more familiar confines of Lusaka.
Vacation
Last week was the MCC retreat. A good time was had in contemplation and in talking with the other SALTers and IVEPers. We also had lots of time for recreation.
On one day we visited one of the worlds largest crocodile farms, home of up to 90,000 crocs. Croc farming is apparently quite a complex process and needs to be very scientifically regulated. For example, the temperature at which the eggs were kept determines the sex of the offspring. I believe it was 32 degrees for females and 40 degrees for males. We also got to hold one of the young ones that was just a few days old. When the crocodiles reach four or five years old they are killed and their skin is sold (usually to Japan) and their meat is also sold. Then we visited the breeding ground where the big ones live and watched as the feeders threw chunks of cow to the crocodiles. Their teeth could grind straight through the bones. A great experience!
We also took a sunset cruise on Lake Kariba. This started off slowly as we got stuck on a submerged tree only metres from the start. Everyone had to be taken off the boat and, after much effort, several locals were able to free the boat from the obstacle. The cruise was great, and importantly, the food was also amazing!
On one day we visited one of the worlds largest crocodile farms, home of up to 90,000 crocs. Croc farming is apparently quite a complex process and needs to be very scientifically regulated. For example, the temperature at which the eggs were kept determines the sex of the offspring. I believe it was 32 degrees for females and 40 degrees for males. We also got to hold one of the young ones that was just a few days old. When the crocodiles reach four or five years old they are killed and their skin is sold (usually to Japan) and their meat is also sold. Then we visited the breeding ground where the big ones live and watched as the feeders threw chunks of cow to the crocodiles. Their teeth could grind straight through the bones. A great experience!
We also took a sunset cruise on Lake Kariba. This started off slowly as we got stuck on a submerged tree only metres from the start. Everyone had to be taken off the boat and, after much effort, several locals were able to free the boat from the obstacle. The cruise was great, and importantly, the food was also amazing!
For the past several days we have been in Livingstone and area. Our home for this time was a backpackers hostel type place called Fawlty Towers. I would highly recommend it to anyone going to the Livingstone area. Not only were the accommodations clean and comfortable but there was a swimming pool, satellite TV, free internet, and it was very easy to book all the activities we wanted through them. Then we were picked up from there every morning so we didn't even have to worry about transportation.
The first day we visited the Falls and hiked down a steep trail to the bottom of the gorge where we had a picnic lunch. The ecology is very interesting in that area because it is almost like a mini-rainforest, conditions that don't exist elsewhere in Zambia. There were plenty of baboons on the way to provide entertainment, one of which even stole Mark's apple on the way down the trail. I negotiated for a couple of curios - a rhino and a man. I think I did OK - K5000 ($1.25) for a nicely carved face and K13500 ($4.30ish) for the rhino.
Our first organized activity was a canoeing safari on the Zambezi River. This was great although the canoes were actually yellow rubber dinghy type boats - real canoes are called "Canadian style" canoes - a reason for national pride, I figure. It was a great way to see some wildlife - hippos, crocs, elephants, etc. Unfortunately we saw the elephants just at the same time as we hit the biggest rapids on the route so we didn't have much time to watch. They really know how to do tourism here. Everything was well organized, we were given a breakfast (to our surprise) before heading out, lunch was great, the guides were well trained, etc. Everything ran like clockwork - an absolutely amazing job by everyone involved!
The first day we visited the Falls and hiked down a steep trail to the bottom of the gorge where we had a picnic lunch. The ecology is very interesting in that area because it is almost like a mini-rainforest, conditions that don't exist elsewhere in Zambia. There were plenty of baboons on the way to provide entertainment, one of which even stole Mark's apple on the way down the trail. I negotiated for a couple of curios - a rhino and a man. I think I did OK - K5000 ($1.25) for a nicely carved face and K13500 ($4.30ish) for the rhino.
Our first organized activity was a canoeing safari on the Zambezi River. This was great although the canoes were actually yellow rubber dinghy type boats - real canoes are called "Canadian style" canoes - a reason for national pride, I figure. It was a great way to see some wildlife - hippos, crocs, elephants, etc. Unfortunately we saw the elephants just at the same time as we hit the biggest rapids on the route so we didn't have much time to watch. They really know how to do tourism here. Everything was well organized, we were given a breakfast (to our surprise) before heading out, lunch was great, the guides were well trained, etc. Everything ran like clockwork - an absolutely amazing job by everyone involved!
We had a free day during which we went to the Falls area again. We walked to the bridge to watch the bungee jumpers and then continued on to the Zimbabwe side. We walked for quite a ways - until we got to the border post - before checking the cost of a visa ($65) and returning to Zambia. Unfortunately, it was much cheaper for Canadians entering Zimbabwe until recently when they raised the rates due to the high price of Canadian visas for Zimbabweans. Some time we will have to bite the bullet and pay the money to see the Falls from the other side. That afternoon we used the satellite TV to watch an NFL football game and had a massage at a place at the backpackers place we were at. Talk about relaxation and renewal.
The last couple days we were on a safari in Chobe National Park in Botswana, about 50 minute drive from Livingstone. It is best known for its 65,000 elephants of which we saw plenty. We had a river cruise first which, in addition to hippos, crocs, and birds, also produced thousands of elephants. Later that day, a lion crossed right in front of our path with her two cubs. Mostly there were huge numbers of various antelope - impala, kudu, situtwela (apparently, very rare), puku, and sable (from far away). We also saw giraffes, more elephants, warthogs, etc. I think if we had been there a week or two earlier, before the rains, we would have seen much more because there would have been less water inland and more animals would have been at the water. On our way back to camp we had a bit of an incident with an elephant that didn't particularly like our truck but everything went smoothly. On the second day we started off with a game drive which was a bit of a disaster - didn't see anything but impala all morning. It had gotten off to a smooth start - we had seen buffalo tracks no more than 20m from our campsite. Unfortunately, no matter which way we went we couldn't find them. The afternoon boat drive made the day though- finally saw the elusive buffalo - and also saw hundreds of hippos out of the water. Hippos are another amazing creature - right up there with the giraffe.
Ordinary life will likely seem a bit mundane for awhile now. There will be no hippos around the corner or no baboons stealing apples. It was certainly a great trip. Even though all the activities don't come cheap they were certainly worth it.
Ordinary life will likely seem a bit mundane for awhile now. There will be no hippos around the corner or no baboons stealing apples. It was certainly a great trip. Even though all the activities don't come cheap they were certainly worth it.
Friday, December 08, 2006
Signs of the Holidays
I have always associated the beginning of the Christmas season with the start of Advent. Christmas was also associated as coming some time after the start of the snow. Once it felt like winter, Christmas could come. Seeing as Advent is not even mentioned in my church and snow is unlikely to occur when it is over 30 degrees outside, I have had to find some new signs of the holidays.
For one, all the women are getting their hair done. Not just some women. It seems every female in the country has had their hair plaited in the last week. I'm told that this is what happens - as soon as school ends the women and girls get their hair done and then in January, when school reopens, they will all return with short hair.
There is also another less pleasant aspect of the holidays. Since the children aren't at school they are put to work and, as a result, child labour skyrockets. If you go to the markets or walk down the streets these days the sellers are not men and women they are little boys and girls. I guess that is what is necessary for lots of people to survive, although it doesn't make the reality any more pleasant
Certainly not all the children are working and so there are many more children around in the community. If they go to Chimwemwe, they yell out "Mr. Eppu, Mr. Eppu, how are you?" I far prefer being "Eppu" or "Eppo" or "Apple" then simply anonymous muzungu so this is a positive development.
The rain was also supposed to be a sign that Christmas was coming but the rainy season has yet to set in here. I saw on a map that the rest of the country has had normal rains except for a narrow band in them middle which includes Lusaka. It is still far too hot, and still no rain.
Celebrating Christmas here will, I'm sure, be full of interesting surprises. My family has asked me to make them a turkey so I will try my hand at that. I'm not quite sure what a Zambian Christmas dish is or, for that matter, any of what a Zambian Christmas entails. I've asked a couple of times but the answer isn't very clear. I'm guessing that it will be a more church-oriented Christmas than what has often happened in the past, but even that is only speculation. So I'll wait and see and find out what the festive season has in store.
For one, all the women are getting their hair done. Not just some women. It seems every female in the country has had their hair plaited in the last week. I'm told that this is what happens - as soon as school ends the women and girls get their hair done and then in January, when school reopens, they will all return with short hair.
There is also another less pleasant aspect of the holidays. Since the children aren't at school they are put to work and, as a result, child labour skyrockets. If you go to the markets or walk down the streets these days the sellers are not men and women they are little boys and girls. I guess that is what is necessary for lots of people to survive, although it doesn't make the reality any more pleasant
Certainly not all the children are working and so there are many more children around in the community. If they go to Chimwemwe, they yell out "Mr. Eppu, Mr. Eppu, how are you?" I far prefer being "Eppu" or "Eppo" or "Apple" then simply anonymous muzungu so this is a positive development.
The rain was also supposed to be a sign that Christmas was coming but the rainy season has yet to set in here. I saw on a map that the rest of the country has had normal rains except for a narrow band in them middle which includes Lusaka. It is still far too hot, and still no rain.
Celebrating Christmas here will, I'm sure, be full of interesting surprises. My family has asked me to make them a turkey so I will try my hand at that. I'm not quite sure what a Zambian Christmas dish is or, for that matter, any of what a Zambian Christmas entails. I've asked a couple of times but the answer isn't very clear. I'm guessing that it will be a more church-oriented Christmas than what has often happened in the past, but even that is only speculation. So I'll wait and see and find out what the festive season has in store.
The Hockey Sweater
Roch Carrier's classic book, "The Hockey Sweater," described the emotional connection that a hockey sweater (particularly, for the wrong team) had on a young Quebecker. Receiving the Toronto Maple Leafs sweater was a disaster, especially considering the passion he had for the Rocket Richard and the ridicule he received from his fellow youngsters.
As can be expected, hockey sweaters here create none of the emotional reactions that are described in Carrier's work. They are, however, worn with some regularity and it has been one of my hobbies to count the number of teams that I see. So far I am up to 15 - half the NHL - and am still counting.
Anaheim and Los Angeles are by far the most represented. There are a lot of LA Kings backpacks floating around - there must have been a big shipment sometime of those. As for the jerseys, maybe they are from Canadian kids who realized how stupid the Anaheim fad was. Or perhaps they were bought my Californians who briefly gained interest in the game only to realize that they were Californian and should not care. The top Canadian teams are from the Original Six - Montreal and Toronto. I presume that this is simply because there is far more merchandise from them than anyone else floating around. Other teams that have been represented so far include: Phoenix (it looked like a brand new jersey), Minnesota, Ottawa, New York Rangers, Boston, and many more. I also saw Oilers and Flames gear but it was being sold in a market and was not being worn so I haven't counted that in my list.
The other sports are represented as well, but my level of caring is not nearly as high. Basketball, baseball, and NFL gear are all worn with frequency. The CFL, so far, has been no where to be seen. For one there is less merchandise from it and, maybe, those who have it are less likely to give it up.
All these sports shirts and a wide variety of other clothing are a result of the booming used clothes trade. This trade, which almost wiped out Zambia's indigenous textile industry, can be seen everywhere and there are large markets dedicated solely to it. As a result, it is not uncommon to see shirts from Canada, whether for Brampton Minor Soccer, or the Alzheimer's Walk in Vancouver, or for the University of Manitoba. A little piece of home, right here in Zambia.
As can be expected, hockey sweaters here create none of the emotional reactions that are described in Carrier's work. They are, however, worn with some regularity and it has been one of my hobbies to count the number of teams that I see. So far I am up to 15 - half the NHL - and am still counting.
Anaheim and Los Angeles are by far the most represented. There are a lot of LA Kings backpacks floating around - there must have been a big shipment sometime of those. As for the jerseys, maybe they are from Canadian kids who realized how stupid the Anaheim fad was. Or perhaps they were bought my Californians who briefly gained interest in the game only to realize that they were Californian and should not care. The top Canadian teams are from the Original Six - Montreal and Toronto. I presume that this is simply because there is far more merchandise from them than anyone else floating around. Other teams that have been represented so far include: Phoenix (it looked like a brand new jersey), Minnesota, Ottawa, New York Rangers, Boston, and many more. I also saw Oilers and Flames gear but it was being sold in a market and was not being worn so I haven't counted that in my list.
The other sports are represented as well, but my level of caring is not nearly as high. Basketball, baseball, and NFL gear are all worn with frequency. The CFL, so far, has been no where to be seen. For one there is less merchandise from it and, maybe, those who have it are less likely to give it up.
All these sports shirts and a wide variety of other clothing are a result of the booming used clothes trade. This trade, which almost wiped out Zambia's indigenous textile industry, can be seen everywhere and there are large markets dedicated solely to it. As a result, it is not uncommon to see shirts from Canada, whether for Brampton Minor Soccer, or the Alzheimer's Walk in Vancouver, or for the University of Manitoba. A little piece of home, right here in Zambia.
The Diaspora
Saskatchewan is a wonderful province. This has not, however, stopped the continuous outflow of its residents. One only has to go to a football game in any province in the country and you will see the results - Rider Green is displayed proudly throughout the nation.
Yesterday I was wearing a Saskatchewan Roughriders shirt at a choir practice when a woman came up to me and asked if I was really a Rider fan. I replied that indeed I was and went on to explain that I had come by it honestly - going to school in Saskatchewan, family connections, etc. Sure enough, she was from Weyburn and still kept up from time to time with the Riders news. I was just shocked that someone actually knew what the Riders were, let alone finding a supporter from Weyburn!
I guess the diaspora is alive and well even here. I knew people fled to Alberta or BC looking for work, but Zambia? I guess things must be really desperate!
Yesterday I was wearing a Saskatchewan Roughriders shirt at a choir practice when a woman came up to me and asked if I was really a Rider fan. I replied that indeed I was and went on to explain that I had come by it honestly - going to school in Saskatchewan, family connections, etc. Sure enough, she was from Weyburn and still kept up from time to time with the Riders news. I was just shocked that someone actually knew what the Riders were, let alone finding a supporter from Weyburn!
I guess the diaspora is alive and well even here. I knew people fled to Alberta or BC looking for work, but Zambia? I guess things must be really desperate!
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
More on the Media
Earlier I had made a couple of observations on the media. Here is another one. Before that, however, let me comment on another example of gruesome imagery in the media. The other day four construction workers were killed when the building they were working on collapsed. MUVI-TV, and undoubtedly ZNBC (although my family mostly watches MUVI) displayed the pictures of the dead and mutilated bodies lying prone on the ground with their brains dashed all over the ground.
Now for my new observation. The editorial bias of "The Post," the nation's private newspaper is incredibly left wing, at least in international affairs. News from Cuba frequently makes the front page, as did the victory of Hugo Chavez in the recent Venezuelan elections. This was accompanied by an editorial which proclaimed that Zambia should learn from Venezuela and that Chavez's anti-neoliberal agenda was a model for the world to copy. It further proclaimed that Chavez was the only one who could possibly fulfill the hopes of the poor and complete the Bolivarian Revolution. Certainly a different perspective than, let's say, the "National Post" would give.
This is interesting because such a bias is not discernible on Zambian issues and none of the political parties here, with the potential exception of UNIP (the former governing party which is now but a shell of its former self) is particularly socialist. I've read that MMD, the current governing party is supposedly social democratic, but this must just be to be able to put a label on it. Similarly, the second biggest party, the Patriotic Front, may be populist but doesn't adhere to left-right labelling. Unlike in Canada, where one could argue that there is a right-wing, centrist, and left-wing party (whether or not these parties stick to these lines is another matter) there are no such clear distinctions here. From a Western perspective, politics here are not particularly easy to label. I guess that's how a newspaper can on one hand root for Castro and Chavez and then take quite a centrist position on Zambian issues.
Now for my new observation. The editorial bias of "The Post," the nation's private newspaper is incredibly left wing, at least in international affairs. News from Cuba frequently makes the front page, as did the victory of Hugo Chavez in the recent Venezuelan elections. This was accompanied by an editorial which proclaimed that Zambia should learn from Venezuela and that Chavez's anti-neoliberal agenda was a model for the world to copy. It further proclaimed that Chavez was the only one who could possibly fulfill the hopes of the poor and complete the Bolivarian Revolution. Certainly a different perspective than, let's say, the "National Post" would give.
This is interesting because such a bias is not discernible on Zambian issues and none of the political parties here, with the potential exception of UNIP (the former governing party which is now but a shell of its former self) is particularly socialist. I've read that MMD, the current governing party is supposedly social democratic, but this must just be to be able to put a label on it. Similarly, the second biggest party, the Patriotic Front, may be populist but doesn't adhere to left-right labelling. Unlike in Canada, where one could argue that there is a right-wing, centrist, and left-wing party (whether or not these parties stick to these lines is another matter) there are no such clear distinctions here. From a Western perspective, politics here are not particularly easy to label. I guess that's how a newspaper can on one hand root for Castro and Chavez and then take quite a centrist position on Zambian issues.
Upcoming Events
First of all, although the recent posts have been bitter and not particularly pleasant, I'm not in a terribly bitter mood right now. For some reason, though, despite having a break from school I'm stressing out. During school time I would work from dawn till dusk and didn't feel an ounce of stress. Now I prepare for a holiday and every little thing seems like a mountain to climb.
Some exciting plans are afoot for the coming weeks. First will be MCC Retreat at a guesthouse on Lake Kariba, a massive man-made lake on the Zambezi River. Attractions will include a sunset cruise and a trip to a large croc farm. This will be followed by some vacation time spent in Livingstone and area with possible side trips including a safari in Botswana, canoeing on the Upper Zambezi, and walking safaris in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Then will be Christmas and somewhere in that time I will go with my host father to the Copperbelt, where he does some work with the Church of the Nazarene and manages a large farm for his deceased son. At any rate, I won't have internet access for a good chunk of time after this week.
Thank you to everyone who has been faithfully reading my musings and observations. At first I thought no one would read it but it has been pleasant to get the e-mails saying that people read it. Thanks for that.
Some exciting plans are afoot for the coming weeks. First will be MCC Retreat at a guesthouse on Lake Kariba, a massive man-made lake on the Zambezi River. Attractions will include a sunset cruise and a trip to a large croc farm. This will be followed by some vacation time spent in Livingstone and area with possible side trips including a safari in Botswana, canoeing on the Upper Zambezi, and walking safaris in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Then will be Christmas and somewhere in that time I will go with my host father to the Copperbelt, where he does some work with the Church of the Nazarene and manages a large farm for his deceased son. At any rate, I won't have internet access for a good chunk of time after this week.
Thank you to everyone who has been faithfully reading my musings and observations. At first I thought no one would read it but it has been pleasant to get the e-mails saying that people read it. Thanks for that.
Monday, December 04, 2006
Thank You Hollywood
Thank you Hollywood for celebrating World AIDS Day.
Thank you for granting us a few minutes of your celebrities' time to record ads for our listening pleasure. We now know to "strap it on before we get it on."
Thank you MTV for your anti-AIDS concert. I'm sure that many were entertained. Now you can spend the next 364 days using sex to sell your programming.
Thank you Madonna. If only there were millions of celebrities with savvy publicists there would be no orphans in Africa!
Thank you GAP for selling RED shirts and donating half the profits to AIDS efforts. It is good that you have found a way to profit off the consciences of the fashion obsessed.
Thank you Geri Halliwell. I'm sure that while you are lounging in luxury hotels you spend your time musing about the impoverished women you visited here. At least you didn't need an orphan as a souvenir.
Thank you Hollywood for caring. At least while you waste countless millions on useless luxuries your consciences will rest easy knowing that you did something for those "poor" African orphans you saw on TV.
I'm sure that the kids of Chipata or Ng'ombe, Matero or Chilenje, feel better today knowing that you care for them (while you spend more money than they will ever know).
At least the kids don't deceive themselves. In many ways they will be richer than you ever know.
Thank you for granting us a few minutes of your celebrities' time to record ads for our listening pleasure. We now know to "strap it on before we get it on."
Thank you MTV for your anti-AIDS concert. I'm sure that many were entertained. Now you can spend the next 364 days using sex to sell your programming.
Thank you Madonna. If only there were millions of celebrities with savvy publicists there would be no orphans in Africa!
Thank you GAP for selling RED shirts and donating half the profits to AIDS efforts. It is good that you have found a way to profit off the consciences of the fashion obsessed.
Thank you Geri Halliwell. I'm sure that while you are lounging in luxury hotels you spend your time musing about the impoverished women you visited here. At least you didn't need an orphan as a souvenir.
Thank you Hollywood for caring. At least while you waste countless millions on useless luxuries your consciences will rest easy knowing that you did something for those "poor" African orphans you saw on TV.
I'm sure that the kids of Chipata or Ng'ombe, Matero or Chilenje, feel better today knowing that you care for them (while you spend more money than they will ever know).
At least the kids don't deceive themselves. In many ways they will be richer than you ever know.
Friday, December 01, 2006
Reflections on AIDS
Seeing as December 1 is World AIDS Day, I thought I would mark the occasion by commenting on my experiences with HIV/AIDS here in Zambia.
The statistics are staggering. 17% of Zambians, one of every six people, has the virus. This resulted in nearly 100,000 deaths in 2005 (think what the reaction would be in North America if we had 3000 September 11s annually) and the life expectancy has dropped below 40 years. It is estimated that 1 in 5 children have lost at least one parent to aids (people speak of either single or double orphans here; single orphans having only lost one parent, and double orphans losing both). AIDS has ravaged the whole country, but it is the urban areas that have suffered the most. Although less than 40% of Zambians live in urban areas, 54% of those suffering from AIDS live in cities. In most predominantly rural areas the prevalency rate is somewhere between 10-20%. In Lusaka it is estimated that over 30% of the population has AIDS.
When I arrived I expected to hear a lot more about AIDS then I have. I know of three people who have AIDS out of all the people that I have met. One simply does not talk about such things because of the stigma related to being identified as HIV positive. There are many others who I guess must be positive but I'm sure that I'll never know definitively.
Anti-AIDS clubs are a regular feature of most schools here now. At my schools, though, I'm not sure exactly what they do to oppose AIDS. I have been involved a little bit with the Anti-AIDS club at Chimwemwe School, helping them practice poems and songs. Sure they sing songs and say poems about fighting AIDS but I don't think that this has had any impact on the school or the wider community.
A more positive development seems to be Peer Education - where youth are trained to talk to other youth about issues regarding HIV/AIDS. My host brother is involved in one such program so I've heard much about it. This seems to have much more potential for success, however its ability to disseminate beyond the original participants depends greatly on the abilities and hard work of the peer educators. When you depend on 15 year olds to carry your message, success is not guaranteed. Naturally some will be eager and want to spread the information they have learned. Others will probably be lazier, or will just get information wrong. Peer education, I believe, is a very positive step in the right direction, but it is not without its flaws.
There are also numerous billboards throughout the city with facts about AIDS. For example, there is one with a picture of a small girl with the headline written in bold "Sex With Me Does Not Cure AIDS." This is apparently a common misperception. Yet, while there may be many of these billboards, there are far more advertising beer with such slogans as "For A Man Who Knows What He Wants" while depicting a man dancing with a scantily clad woman in a bar. Seems like a good message in a country wanting to fight AIDS.
AIDS, and its effects, are not something that is always apparent. You don't see people walking down the street and know that they have AIDS. It is silent and unseen, but at the same time colours every aspect of society. You have to read between the lines in order to see its effect on people and on the nation. For example, I had some students who were single or double orphans. There are lots of reasons why parents die, but in this country there is one culprit that is more likely than others. There are other ways that you can see AIDS without seeing AIDS - people are sick, people are at funerals, etc.
It is clearly hypocritical for Westerners to condemn Africans for their "loose sexual mores" while our media constantly portrays sexual images, uses women as objects only worthy because of physical beauty and while study after study shows that youth are involving themselves in sexual activity. I saw one study published in a local newspaper here that suggests that North Americans actually have sex at a younger age, on average, than Africans. Young Zambians are certainly having sex, but so are young Canadians, young Americans, young Brits, and so on. The idea that Africans are some how wild, sex hungry savages should have been left in the Victorian Age and has no place in the 21st century.
This is not to say that there is not much to criticize about sexual morality here, especially in an age when AIDS is so prevalent. I am reminded of the Independence Day celebrations at school where while teenage girls were dancing boys would run up and stuff money into their bras or back pockets, where girls would gyrate to traditional dances, and where sexually explicit behaviour was, if not celebrated, certainly condoned. And this was at a school that prides itself in fighting AIDS. I don't want to come here as an outsider and proclaim that Zambian traditions are evil and must be abandoned. It does seem, however, that some reforms must be made. When 1 in 6 people have a deadly disease, and more contract it every day, clinging to traditions that encourage women to dance in sexually provocative manners or practices where girls are trained how to be a proper woman and then dance topless in front of the village men, seems to be ridiculous. I'm sure everyone who has read "The Lottery" in school could recognize the comparison.
One thing that I have noticed is how many young women here have kids - in a Grade 10 class that had 5 girls, 3 had kids. One of my Grade 8s missed most of the term to take care of her sick child. Clearly many people are having sex, and are doing so at a young age. The message of abstinence, abstinence, abstinence may sound good at the church meetings (and these are all church going youth) but clearly doesn't make a difference in the realities of their lives. I don't want to bash the benefits of abstinence and I hear that it is making some difference, but unless babies do indeed come from storks, one merely has to count the number of unwed mothers to see that the message really is not sinking in. I certainly don't want to blame the mothers either. While the mothers are the ones carrying around the kids, the males who helped produce the child are rarely anywhere to be seen. There are also many older men who will buy nice presents for their young girlfriends in exchange for sex, many women who are forced into prostitution by poverty, and many young girls who would be heavily pressured by their boyfriends.
A fundamental problem in the AIDS pandemic is the power dynamic between males and females. For a woman it is very difficult to say no if a man desire to have sex. I heard on the news the other day that 57% of women here have been sexually abused. Basically, three out of five. There was a story in the newspapers recently from Southern Province. A grade six girl was raped by an older man. Instead of pressing charges against the man, the girl's parents then forced her to marry him. Even if a woman practices abstinence, and then is faithful to her husband, she can still contract AIDS if she has the misfortune of having a philandering partner. Hence the change of the motto from "Be Faithful to One Partner" to "Be Faithful to a Faithful Partner."
The future is bleak and I don't have much, if any, optimism. I hear that the prevalence rate is not increasing as quickly, and in some demographic sectors, is decreasing. This is good news. More and more people are going for VCT (Voluntary Councilling and Testing) and are getting ARVs (anti-retro virals). There is still a long way to go. Less than 0.5% of the rural population has gone for testing and the number in the cities is only around 1%. The relationship between men and women is not changing and neither are male attitudes about sex.
If I sit in the back of the bus on the way to work I can see 12 people in front of me. Then I look at each row of three people. According to the odds, an average of one in each row has HIV/AIDS. They are probably a mother or a father, and some day their child will join the swelling ranks of single or double orphans. Their child will have to go live with their grandmother, will suffer the trauma of losing a parent, will have a disruption in their education, might be sick themselves.
This is AIDS. You may not see it, but it is there. All you see is the results - crowded hospitals, parentless children, poverty, funerals. One in three. This will happen to one in three people that I meet here in the city. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, maybe not even next year or in five years. Nevertheless, they remain on death row with no chance of appeal.
The statistics are staggering. 17% of Zambians, one of every six people, has the virus. This resulted in nearly 100,000 deaths in 2005 (think what the reaction would be in North America if we had 3000 September 11s annually) and the life expectancy has dropped below 40 years. It is estimated that 1 in 5 children have lost at least one parent to aids (people speak of either single or double orphans here; single orphans having only lost one parent, and double orphans losing both). AIDS has ravaged the whole country, but it is the urban areas that have suffered the most. Although less than 40% of Zambians live in urban areas, 54% of those suffering from AIDS live in cities. In most predominantly rural areas the prevalency rate is somewhere between 10-20%. In Lusaka it is estimated that over 30% of the population has AIDS.
When I arrived I expected to hear a lot more about AIDS then I have. I know of three people who have AIDS out of all the people that I have met. One simply does not talk about such things because of the stigma related to being identified as HIV positive. There are many others who I guess must be positive but I'm sure that I'll never know definitively.
Anti-AIDS clubs are a regular feature of most schools here now. At my schools, though, I'm not sure exactly what they do to oppose AIDS. I have been involved a little bit with the Anti-AIDS club at Chimwemwe School, helping them practice poems and songs. Sure they sing songs and say poems about fighting AIDS but I don't think that this has had any impact on the school or the wider community.
A more positive development seems to be Peer Education - where youth are trained to talk to other youth about issues regarding HIV/AIDS. My host brother is involved in one such program so I've heard much about it. This seems to have much more potential for success, however its ability to disseminate beyond the original participants depends greatly on the abilities and hard work of the peer educators. When you depend on 15 year olds to carry your message, success is not guaranteed. Naturally some will be eager and want to spread the information they have learned. Others will probably be lazier, or will just get information wrong. Peer education, I believe, is a very positive step in the right direction, but it is not without its flaws.
There are also numerous billboards throughout the city with facts about AIDS. For example, there is one with a picture of a small girl with the headline written in bold "Sex With Me Does Not Cure AIDS." This is apparently a common misperception. Yet, while there may be many of these billboards, there are far more advertising beer with such slogans as "For A Man Who Knows What He Wants" while depicting a man dancing with a scantily clad woman in a bar. Seems like a good message in a country wanting to fight AIDS.
AIDS, and its effects, are not something that is always apparent. You don't see people walking down the street and know that they have AIDS. It is silent and unseen, but at the same time colours every aspect of society. You have to read between the lines in order to see its effect on people and on the nation. For example, I had some students who were single or double orphans. There are lots of reasons why parents die, but in this country there is one culprit that is more likely than others. There are other ways that you can see AIDS without seeing AIDS - people are sick, people are at funerals, etc.
It is clearly hypocritical for Westerners to condemn Africans for their "loose sexual mores" while our media constantly portrays sexual images, uses women as objects only worthy because of physical beauty and while study after study shows that youth are involving themselves in sexual activity. I saw one study published in a local newspaper here that suggests that North Americans actually have sex at a younger age, on average, than Africans. Young Zambians are certainly having sex, but so are young Canadians, young Americans, young Brits, and so on. The idea that Africans are some how wild, sex hungry savages should have been left in the Victorian Age and has no place in the 21st century.
This is not to say that there is not much to criticize about sexual morality here, especially in an age when AIDS is so prevalent. I am reminded of the Independence Day celebrations at school where while teenage girls were dancing boys would run up and stuff money into their bras or back pockets, where girls would gyrate to traditional dances, and where sexually explicit behaviour was, if not celebrated, certainly condoned. And this was at a school that prides itself in fighting AIDS. I don't want to come here as an outsider and proclaim that Zambian traditions are evil and must be abandoned. It does seem, however, that some reforms must be made. When 1 in 6 people have a deadly disease, and more contract it every day, clinging to traditions that encourage women to dance in sexually provocative manners or practices where girls are trained how to be a proper woman and then dance topless in front of the village men, seems to be ridiculous. I'm sure everyone who has read "The Lottery" in school could recognize the comparison.
One thing that I have noticed is how many young women here have kids - in a Grade 10 class that had 5 girls, 3 had kids. One of my Grade 8s missed most of the term to take care of her sick child. Clearly many people are having sex, and are doing so at a young age. The message of abstinence, abstinence, abstinence may sound good at the church meetings (and these are all church going youth) but clearly doesn't make a difference in the realities of their lives. I don't want to bash the benefits of abstinence and I hear that it is making some difference, but unless babies do indeed come from storks, one merely has to count the number of unwed mothers to see that the message really is not sinking in. I certainly don't want to blame the mothers either. While the mothers are the ones carrying around the kids, the males who helped produce the child are rarely anywhere to be seen. There are also many older men who will buy nice presents for their young girlfriends in exchange for sex, many women who are forced into prostitution by poverty, and many young girls who would be heavily pressured by their boyfriends.
A fundamental problem in the AIDS pandemic is the power dynamic between males and females. For a woman it is very difficult to say no if a man desire to have sex. I heard on the news the other day that 57% of women here have been sexually abused. Basically, three out of five. There was a story in the newspapers recently from Southern Province. A grade six girl was raped by an older man. Instead of pressing charges against the man, the girl's parents then forced her to marry him. Even if a woman practices abstinence, and then is faithful to her husband, she can still contract AIDS if she has the misfortune of having a philandering partner. Hence the change of the motto from "Be Faithful to One Partner" to "Be Faithful to a Faithful Partner."
The future is bleak and I don't have much, if any, optimism. I hear that the prevalence rate is not increasing as quickly, and in some demographic sectors, is decreasing. This is good news. More and more people are going for VCT (Voluntary Councilling and Testing) and are getting ARVs (anti-retro virals). There is still a long way to go. Less than 0.5% of the rural population has gone for testing and the number in the cities is only around 1%. The relationship between men and women is not changing and neither are male attitudes about sex.
If I sit in the back of the bus on the way to work I can see 12 people in front of me. Then I look at each row of three people. According to the odds, an average of one in each row has HIV/AIDS. They are probably a mother or a father, and some day their child will join the swelling ranks of single or double orphans. Their child will have to go live with their grandmother, will suffer the trauma of losing a parent, will have a disruption in their education, might be sick themselves.
This is AIDS. You may not see it, but it is there. All you see is the results - crowded hospitals, parentless children, poverty, funerals. One in three. This will happen to one in three people that I meet here in the city. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, maybe not even next year or in five years. Nevertheless, they remain on death row with no chance of appeal.
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
Celebrating Christmas
November 25 may be a month away from the actual day, but it was the day that Chimwemwe School held its annual Christmas party this year. For the last several years a group of Japanese JICA workers has been helping put on the event in cooperation with the school resulting in a bizarre mix of cultures but lots of food and fun for all.
To start off the party a Japanese woman with a Micky Mouse puppet on one hand and a Minnie Mouse puppet on the other hand welcomed the kids. The kids had no clue who the strange mice were so that required a little explanation. Then the visitors introduced themselves - there were about ten of them in all - and attempted a few Nyanjan words. I'm sure my Nyanjan is just as bad as theirs but, while I have a Canadian accent they have a Japanese one, which was strange to hear.
The kids at school had numerous entertainment acts prepared - some dancing (including the regular feature of little girls gyrating, although it wasn't nearly as bad as during the Independence Day celebrations), some poetry, and some singing. Kids from Grade One up to Grade Six all presented their features. Then some of the Japanese kids wowed the audience with a karate demonstration before bringing some of the Chimwemwe kids up to the front to try it out.
Upon the completion of the karate lesson we moved on to my favourite part - cake. There was enough for me to have a couple of pieces. What a deal!! After a few more entertainment numbers it was then the moment all the kids had been waiting for...presents.
These presents were brought in by none other than a Japanese Santa Claus and a Japanese person in a pig costume. I got a really good picture of this one. I'm not quite sure the connection between the pig and Christmas. It is possible that this was the only costume they had. Or, perhaps, since the nose was red and Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer was playing over the loud speakers there was a connection in this way. Whatever the explanation, these two proceeded to give every kid a present and some sweets. The presents were a wide variety of things - stuffed animals, little toy handbags, toy guns, books, games, etc. They seemed to be of the gently used variety. The day ended with a little jump rope before the kids helped clean up the mess made by the partying.
The Japanese visitors were really friendly and even offered me a ride home all the way to Woodlands. Since my stomach was sub-par that day, this was gladly accepted. It seemed like there was a bit of an expatriate connection even though we are expats of very different countries. In this small way there was a shared experience even though we came from the far corners of the globe.
To start off the party a Japanese woman with a Micky Mouse puppet on one hand and a Minnie Mouse puppet on the other hand welcomed the kids. The kids had no clue who the strange mice were so that required a little explanation. Then the visitors introduced themselves - there were about ten of them in all - and attempted a few Nyanjan words. I'm sure my Nyanjan is just as bad as theirs but, while I have a Canadian accent they have a Japanese one, which was strange to hear.
The kids at school had numerous entertainment acts prepared - some dancing (including the regular feature of little girls gyrating, although it wasn't nearly as bad as during the Independence Day celebrations), some poetry, and some singing. Kids from Grade One up to Grade Six all presented their features. Then some of the Japanese kids wowed the audience with a karate demonstration before bringing some of the Chimwemwe kids up to the front to try it out.
Upon the completion of the karate lesson we moved on to my favourite part - cake. There was enough for me to have a couple of pieces. What a deal!! After a few more entertainment numbers it was then the moment all the kids had been waiting for...presents.
These presents were brought in by none other than a Japanese Santa Claus and a Japanese person in a pig costume. I got a really good picture of this one. I'm not quite sure the connection between the pig and Christmas. It is possible that this was the only costume they had. Or, perhaps, since the nose was red and Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer was playing over the loud speakers there was a connection in this way. Whatever the explanation, these two proceeded to give every kid a present and some sweets. The presents were a wide variety of things - stuffed animals, little toy handbags, toy guns, books, games, etc. They seemed to be of the gently used variety. The day ended with a little jump rope before the kids helped clean up the mess made by the partying.
The Japanese visitors were really friendly and even offered me a ride home all the way to Woodlands. Since my stomach was sub-par that day, this was gladly accepted. It seemed like there was a bit of an expatriate connection even though we are expats of very different countries. In this small way there was a shared experience even though we came from the far corners of the globe.
Thank You Japan
Before coming here I had read the Japan had an abysmal record on foreign aid. Thus, its promise last year to double aid to Africa meant nothing because it hardly gave anything to begin with. Zambia, however, appears to be an exception to this rule as Japanese aid has been very visible throughout my stay here and, in fact, benefits me every day.
First, I would like to thank Japan for its infrastructure program that put in K29 billion ($7.25 million US) to repair six major roads around the city. These take me to both schools that I work at - making it possible to glide across fresh tarmac for much of the way instead of bouncing along bumpy potholed roads. Sure, the money went to pay a Japanese company to build the roads but the people being paid to build them were Zambians and the result is a road that will help decongest other roads and allow greater access to town for the people of the compound. Every morning on my bike ride to work I say a big thank you to the Japanese people.
Second, I have seen numerous other JICA (Japanese International Cooperation Agency) projects in the city. Schools are built and boreholes are dug. Once again, thank you Japan.
Thirdly, there is the annual Christmas party at Chimwemwe School which has been discussed in this blog. Thank you Japan.
Finally, I got a ride home from the Christmas party with some Japanese people. Another big plus.
My experience with Japanese foreign aid, therefore, seems to be different than the impression I had before arrival. In comparison, CIDA has been pretty quiet. I have seen that they helped the Zambian Red Cross with some project but that is the only evidence of their work I have seen. It is quite possible that they are working elsewhere in the country, but in Lusaka there is next to nothing from Canada, at least that I've seen.
First, I would like to thank Japan for its infrastructure program that put in K29 billion ($7.25 million US) to repair six major roads around the city. These take me to both schools that I work at - making it possible to glide across fresh tarmac for much of the way instead of bouncing along bumpy potholed roads. Sure, the money went to pay a Japanese company to build the roads but the people being paid to build them were Zambians and the result is a road that will help decongest other roads and allow greater access to town for the people of the compound. Every morning on my bike ride to work I say a big thank you to the Japanese people.
Second, I have seen numerous other JICA (Japanese International Cooperation Agency) projects in the city. Schools are built and boreholes are dug. Once again, thank you Japan.
Thirdly, there is the annual Christmas party at Chimwemwe School which has been discussed in this blog. Thank you Japan.
Finally, I got a ride home from the Christmas party with some Japanese people. Another big plus.
My experience with Japanese foreign aid, therefore, seems to be different than the impression I had before arrival. In comparison, CIDA has been pretty quiet. I have seen that they helped the Zambian Red Cross with some project but that is the only evidence of their work I have seen. It is quite possible that they are working elsewhere in the country, but in Lusaka there is next to nothing from Canada, at least that I've seen.
Saturday, November 25, 2006
My Favourite Places
The following is a list of some of my favourite places to visit in the city in no particular order.
1. UNZA - The University of Zambia has hideously ugly concrete buildings but the scenery at the front of the campus is spectacular. Around two man-made ponds there are large trees and green grass that result in a quiet, shady, and beautiful place to relax or work. I stopped there last week to do some marking and I think I will make it a regular part of my routine. There are also some cows there - must be from the Faculty of Agriculture - which are by far the best looking cows I've seen. Augustana should get some cows - they can mow the grass and maintain their status as the "rural" university.
2. Chipata - I feel at home in the chaotic environment of this compound through which I travel every day on the way to work. There are so many sights, sounds, and smells that there is always something to keep my attention.
3. Independence Stadium - The site of the two national team matches I went to. The emotion and excitement of the Zambian crowd are definitely highlights so far.
4. North of Ng'ombe - During my last days at the CRs house we went on a short bike ride north of town. Very quickly one gets into agricultural country - small farms growing a variety of produce. There is a little creek valley that is abundantly rich because of all the phosphates coming from the city (thank goodness for pollution) and so is wonderfully green and lush.
5. Town - I haven't had too many opportunities to explore down town or simply "town" as it is called here but what I have seen is also a cacophony of a variety of salesmen hawking their wares, markets, shops, and more sights and sounds so there is always something new to see there.
There is a small list. I'm sure I will add more later on at some point.
1. UNZA - The University of Zambia has hideously ugly concrete buildings but the scenery at the front of the campus is spectacular. Around two man-made ponds there are large trees and green grass that result in a quiet, shady, and beautiful place to relax or work. I stopped there last week to do some marking and I think I will make it a regular part of my routine. There are also some cows there - must be from the Faculty of Agriculture - which are by far the best looking cows I've seen. Augustana should get some cows - they can mow the grass and maintain their status as the "rural" university.
2. Chipata - I feel at home in the chaotic environment of this compound through which I travel every day on the way to work. There are so many sights, sounds, and smells that there is always something to keep my attention.
3. Independence Stadium - The site of the two national team matches I went to. The emotion and excitement of the Zambian crowd are definitely highlights so far.
4. North of Ng'ombe - During my last days at the CRs house we went on a short bike ride north of town. Very quickly one gets into agricultural country - small farms growing a variety of produce. There is a little creek valley that is abundantly rich because of all the phosphates coming from the city (thank goodness for pollution) and so is wonderfully green and lush.
5. Town - I haven't had too many opportunities to explore down town or simply "town" as it is called here but what I have seen is also a cacophony of a variety of salesmen hawking their wares, markets, shops, and more sights and sounds so there is always something new to see there.
There is a small list. I'm sure I will add more later on at some point.
Urban Agriculture
One of the challenges during my first few nights in Zambia was to avoid being woken by the numerous roosters who seemed to be crowing in close vicinity to my bedroom. Just because Lusaka is a city of 2 million people does not mean that agricultural activities do not take place. Indeed, they are essential for assisting the incomes of many residents, particularly in the compounds.
A variety of livestock are kept, although chickens are most popular. Every day I see countless chickens which, I presume, provide the eggs that are available at the market for K500 (12 cents) a piece. I have also seen a few goats and at school for awhile guinea pigs were being raised. Apparently, consuming guinea pig is good for some sort of ailment, but I have yet to be offered it. Unfortunately the guinea pigs were stolen, thus ending that project.
Now that rainy season is coming, it also means that it is time to grow maize. Every spare plot of land - even if it just a few meters wide - has been transformed into a cultivated field ready to plant with maize. I guess every little bit helps. There are some fairly large open spaces in parts of the city, especially around the university, which have been transformed into these tiny plots, but people also put in a crop wherever they can - along the side of the road, in their yard, etc. It will be nice to moniter the progress of the crops as I make my way to school every day.
Wouldn't it be great to have a chicken or two? Fresh eggs every morning, and then when you want to cull part of your flock, a wonderful dinner. Seems like a good deal to me.
A variety of livestock are kept, although chickens are most popular. Every day I see countless chickens which, I presume, provide the eggs that are available at the market for K500 (12 cents) a piece. I have also seen a few goats and at school for awhile guinea pigs were being raised. Apparently, consuming guinea pig is good for some sort of ailment, but I have yet to be offered it. Unfortunately the guinea pigs were stolen, thus ending that project.
Now that rainy season is coming, it also means that it is time to grow maize. Every spare plot of land - even if it just a few meters wide - has been transformed into a cultivated field ready to plant with maize. I guess every little bit helps. There are some fairly large open spaces in parts of the city, especially around the university, which have been transformed into these tiny plots, but people also put in a crop wherever they can - along the side of the road, in their yard, etc. It will be nice to moniter the progress of the crops as I make my way to school every day.
Wouldn't it be great to have a chicken or two? Fresh eggs every morning, and then when you want to cull part of your flock, a wonderful dinner. Seems like a good deal to me.
Let The Rain Begin!
When I tell people that Canada has no rainy season jaws drop almost as much as when I tell them we have no staple food. The four season system might as well be from Mars. I'm told told that November is supposed to be the beginning of the rainy season although so far not much has happened. There have been two or three rains that were pretty heavy by my thinking but, according to the locals, they were not "good" rains. I'm wondering what kind of sustained down pour qualifies as a "good" rain. The wonderful thing about the rains is that everything cools down to quite a comfortable temperature and, if the rain happens at night, I'm not inconvenienced in the least. The downside, of course, is the potential for getting soaked on a long bike ride home. So far this hasn't happened, but I'm guessing it is only a matter of time.
The weather for the first couple of months here was amazing. I think the temperature was in the mid to high 20s everyday and cooled off nicely at night. Every day was sunny and warm. I never even had to think of if I should be preparing for adverse weather - it just never came. October and November are the "hot" months and I am very glad to be coming to the end of them. Temperatures in the high 30s were not uncommon. I would sit in my room and sweat would be pouring from my face. Not a pleasant experience to say the least. I guess that is why people like the rains so much. After every rain the temperature is really quite moderate. A good thing, considering that wearing shorts outside of the home is taboo, and work clothes are always fairly formal.
The rains appear to have picked up now. We had a little yesterday morning, and again in the night. The clouds currently threaten more rains - enough so that I left the bike at home today. I hope we get a really good dousing soon so I can experience what is meant by the "good rains."
The weather for the first couple of months here was amazing. I think the temperature was in the mid to high 20s everyday and cooled off nicely at night. Every day was sunny and warm. I never even had to think of if I should be preparing for adverse weather - it just never came. October and November are the "hot" months and I am very glad to be coming to the end of them. Temperatures in the high 30s were not uncommon. I would sit in my room and sweat would be pouring from my face. Not a pleasant experience to say the least. I guess that is why people like the rains so much. After every rain the temperature is really quite moderate. A good thing, considering that wearing shorts outside of the home is taboo, and work clothes are always fairly formal.
The rains appear to have picked up now. We had a little yesterday morning, and again in the night. The clouds currently threaten more rains - enough so that I left the bike at home today. I hope we get a really good dousing soon so I can experience what is meant by the "good rains."
Monday, November 20, 2006
Back on the Bus
One of the results of moving farther away from my workplaces has been a vast increase in my use of the local bus "system." Bussing here is done by privately run minibusses which are refurbished vans from Japan that are painted blue and white, and the seats are rearranged so that they can fit 15 or so passengers (4 across per row), the driver, and the "conductor." The conditions are almost always cramped (which also means that it gets hot quickly), but are usually not uncomfortable. I've sat in a couple of situations where I had a metal bar in the seat behind me digging into my back, but this is the exception rather than the rule. It really depends on the quality of the bus - some are practically falling apart, others are brand new. I've also grown in my minibus IQ so I now know that there are certain places to sit and certain places to try not to sit.
The minibusses technically have set stops while they are on the main road but when they are in the compound they will stop anywhere to pick up, or drop off, a passenger. They want your business so they will stop and wait for you if need be, or reverse down a hill to pick you up. Generally, they wait till they fill up to leave the first stop. This means that if you are the first one there and it is not a busy time you can be in for quite a wait. During peak hours this is not a problem. If they don't fill up then they will slowly progress trying to pick up passengers along the way. It is the job of the conductor, also known by a less glorious name of "call boy" to get people to get on the bus - either by running around yelling out the destination, waving and whistling at people, helping them with their stuff, etc. When they fill up, however, these busses fly (the drivers can be pretty crazy, although this is appreciated by a passenger such as myself during rush hour log jams). The scheduled stops are few enough, and the number of passengers small enough that, unlike Winnipeg public transit, one does not have to stop every 200m down the road to pick up or drop off a passenger.
A couple of days after I arrived at my host family they bought a minibus. It runs 6 days a week from 6:00 up to 20:00. They have a driver (the thought of someone doing six 14 hour days behind the wheel is slightly unnerving, particularly when one considers that there are countless others doing the same thing). Apparently the bus should pay for itself with a year as long as it has no major mechanical problems.
On the whole I appreciate the bus system here. It is generally quick, it gives an opportunity to interact with people, I have been able to sit beside a live chicken on one trip (trying pulling that in Winnipeg!), and since people want your business they are willing to go above and beyond to get you on board. This last point can also be a bit of a hassle, along with the occasional slow trips on an empty bus constantly trying to pick up passengers or the uncomfort that sometimes accompanies the cramped conditions of sitting four to a row of a narrow bus. Minibusses, however, represent another essential aspect of Lusaka life.
The minibusses technically have set stops while they are on the main road but when they are in the compound they will stop anywhere to pick up, or drop off, a passenger. They want your business so they will stop and wait for you if need be, or reverse down a hill to pick you up. Generally, they wait till they fill up to leave the first stop. This means that if you are the first one there and it is not a busy time you can be in for quite a wait. During peak hours this is not a problem. If they don't fill up then they will slowly progress trying to pick up passengers along the way. It is the job of the conductor, also known by a less glorious name of "call boy" to get people to get on the bus - either by running around yelling out the destination, waving and whistling at people, helping them with their stuff, etc. When they fill up, however, these busses fly (the drivers can be pretty crazy, although this is appreciated by a passenger such as myself during rush hour log jams). The scheduled stops are few enough, and the number of passengers small enough that, unlike Winnipeg public transit, one does not have to stop every 200m down the road to pick up or drop off a passenger.
A couple of days after I arrived at my host family they bought a minibus. It runs 6 days a week from 6:00 up to 20:00. They have a driver (the thought of someone doing six 14 hour days behind the wheel is slightly unnerving, particularly when one considers that there are countless others doing the same thing). Apparently the bus should pay for itself with a year as long as it has no major mechanical problems.
On the whole I appreciate the bus system here. It is generally quick, it gives an opportunity to interact with people, I have been able to sit beside a live chicken on one trip (trying pulling that in Winnipeg!), and since people want your business they are willing to go above and beyond to get you on board. This last point can also be a bit of a hassle, along with the occasional slow trips on an empty bus constantly trying to pick up passengers or the uncomfort that sometimes accompanies the cramped conditions of sitting four to a row of a narrow bus. Minibusses, however, represent another essential aspect of Lusaka life.
For Sale
For those who like shopping (in other words, not me) there are several different options available in the city of Lusaka. For those with western tastes there are two American-style shopping malls stocked with South African stores providing quality goods at high prices. There are a few other smaller centres scattered throughout the city where one can expect to pay a premium for the privilege of shopping where 90% of the city cannot afford to.
Then there are the markets, which once again have a variety of levels. Almost anything can be obtained at a market and, usually, for significantly better rates than one would find at the aforementioned shopping centres. For example, photocopying at a western style internet cafe costs K400 per page, whereas performing the same task in a compound will set one back only K200 per page.
There are also a scattering of small shops. Since the unemployment rate is astronomical many people have resorted to buying goods in bulk and then selling them off one at a time. This includes eggs (although often people keep chickens), laundry soap, vegetables, sweets, biscuits (cookies), etc. There is also a booming market in cell phone talk time since all the cell phone networks are prepaid (you have to buy talk time before you can make calls). The result is employment for thousands selling the little cards you need - which are as small as K5000 ($1.25) - to top up your phone.
Finally, there is a third section of the economy. Things you can buy on the side of the road. Among the most popular roadside attractions are carpenters selling beds, desks, chairs, etc. Rocks and sand for cement are also a common sight. There are also people hawking newspapers, vegetables and a variety of trinkets including Monopoly board games,
whistles, hats, cigarettes, and even live puppies who come to your window when you stop at a red light.
The fundamental difference between the Canadian and Zambian employment scene it seems is that Zambians have been forced to find ingenious methods of supporting themselves commercially. They will likely only earn a few dollars in a day but this will be enough to at least put some nshima on the table that evening. And since there is no social security of a government-run kind (although the extended family often helps in dire situations) if you don't work you don't eat.
Then there are the markets, which once again have a variety of levels. Almost anything can be obtained at a market and, usually, for significantly better rates than one would find at the aforementioned shopping centres. For example, photocopying at a western style internet cafe costs K400 per page, whereas performing the same task in a compound will set one back only K200 per page.
There are also a scattering of small shops. Since the unemployment rate is astronomical many people have resorted to buying goods in bulk and then selling them off one at a time. This includes eggs (although often people keep chickens), laundry soap, vegetables, sweets, biscuits (cookies), etc. There is also a booming market in cell phone talk time since all the cell phone networks are prepaid (you have to buy talk time before you can make calls). The result is employment for thousands selling the little cards you need - which are as small as K5000 ($1.25) - to top up your phone.
Finally, there is a third section of the economy. Things you can buy on the side of the road. Among the most popular roadside attractions are carpenters selling beds, desks, chairs, etc. Rocks and sand for cement are also a common sight. There are also people hawking newspapers, vegetables and a variety of trinkets including Monopoly board games,
whistles, hats, cigarettes, and even live puppies who come to your window when you stop at a red light.
The fundamental difference between the Canadian and Zambian employment scene it seems is that Zambians have been forced to find ingenious methods of supporting themselves commercially. They will likely only earn a few dollars in a day but this will be enough to at least put some nshima on the table that evening. And since there is no social security of a government-run kind (although the extended family often helps in dire situations) if you don't work you don't eat.
Monday, November 13, 2006
Holiness Unto the Lord
Since my host father is a pastor of a Church of the Nazarene congregation, this is where I have been attending church for the last couple of weeks and, presumably, will continue to do so for the rest of the year. The congregation itself is comfortably small - less than 100 - and the singing is of high quality. I have noticed this among most of the churches I have been to (with a couple of notable exceptions) here. I guess music is one thing that Mennonites and Africans have in common.
The building itself is just finished so the cement bricks are still visible and there is no glass in the windows yet. The latter makes the facility much more comfortable as it actually allows for breeze to flow through the sanctuary. The former appeals to my inner-Calvinist. The church is bare except for some cloth hangings at the front and the banner reading "Holiness Unto the Lord." Instead of pews we have hard wooden benches supported by concrete blocks. I appreciate the idea of such seating - the plainness seems to have a certain connection with Jesus's own simple life as a carpenter - but after a three hour service the practical aspect of such seating begins to wear on me.
Perhaps most surprising is that men and women sit on different sides of the church. I didn't know that this was something that was still practiced outside small enclaves. Women seem to participate relatively equally in the church (well, at least as equally as one can expect in Zambian society) so I guess a theory of "separate but equal" is at work.
Services run from about 9:00 up to 12:30ish. First, an hour or more of Sunday School - basically an interactive sermon. Then, an hour or so of music. This consists of congregational singing which is sometimes done out of a book (so at least I can sing along moderately well) and then sometimes for memory (in which case I'm left trying to sound out the syllables). Then is "special music." This consists of individuals who come up to lead a song of their choosing. Sometimes this has been well rehearsed and is very good; at other times this is not the case. Finally, there is the choir which is very good and has a very entertaining director. At the end is the sermon - usually about an hour or so - by which point I'm squirming a little from the plank beneath me. It is challenging to pay attention throughout because probably 90% of it is done in Nyanja or Bemba. With Nyanja at least I can pick up a few words in a minute - with Bemba my comprehension is pretty much zip. Hopefully as the year goes on I will be able to understand a little bit more.
The building itself is just finished so the cement bricks are still visible and there is no glass in the windows yet. The latter makes the facility much more comfortable as it actually allows for breeze to flow through the sanctuary. The former appeals to my inner-Calvinist. The church is bare except for some cloth hangings at the front and the banner reading "Holiness Unto the Lord." Instead of pews we have hard wooden benches supported by concrete blocks. I appreciate the idea of such seating - the plainness seems to have a certain connection with Jesus's own simple life as a carpenter - but after a three hour service the practical aspect of such seating begins to wear on me.
Perhaps most surprising is that men and women sit on different sides of the church. I didn't know that this was something that was still practiced outside small enclaves. Women seem to participate relatively equally in the church (well, at least as equally as one can expect in Zambian society) so I guess a theory of "separate but equal" is at work.
Services run from about 9:00 up to 12:30ish. First, an hour or more of Sunday School - basically an interactive sermon. Then, an hour or so of music. This consists of congregational singing which is sometimes done out of a book (so at least I can sing along moderately well) and then sometimes for memory (in which case I'm left trying to sound out the syllables). Then is "special music." This consists of individuals who come up to lead a song of their choosing. Sometimes this has been well rehearsed and is very good; at other times this is not the case. Finally, there is the choir which is very good and has a very entertaining director. At the end is the sermon - usually about an hour or so - by which point I'm squirming a little from the plank beneath me. It is challenging to pay attention throughout because probably 90% of it is done in Nyanja or Bemba. With Nyanja at least I can pick up a few words in a minute - with Bemba my comprehension is pretty much zip. Hopefully as the year goes on I will be able to understand a little bit more.
Friday, November 10, 2006
The Widow's Mite
November 8 is always a great day for me. It seems like every birthday goes well, regardless of other circumstances. This year, however, I was unsure of what was going to happen. Only one Zambian knew that it was my birthday so I assumed that the day would pass quietly and that the only celebration would be a dinner in the evening with my MCC Country Reps. I could not have been more wrong.
As soon as I arrived at school, hot and sweaty from my bike ride I might add, the Grades 3s and 4s poured out off their classroom to sing me happy birthday. They must have sang the song five or six times and then a few of the came up to give me presents - cookies, a pencil, and some money. I was quite surprised by this but there was more to come. I was taken around to each class where they sang me happy birthday and put presents for me in a box. By the end of the day I had a grocery bag of candy, some fruit, money, a pencil, a plastic flower, and many cards. What a great way to celebrate a birthday.
I was immediately reminded of the widow's mite. Here were kids who have hardly anything - many are living in crowded houses, or without electricity, or with very little food - yet they were buying me little birthday presents or putting little bills into my present box. It was very touching that these kids would do such a thing for me. It would have been an actual sacrifice to buy me the sweets or the cookies which is tremendously moving if one thinks about it.
The birthday that was expected to pass quietly, therefore, actually became one of the best birthdays ever.
As soon as I arrived at school, hot and sweaty from my bike ride I might add, the Grades 3s and 4s poured out off their classroom to sing me happy birthday. They must have sang the song five or six times and then a few of the came up to give me presents - cookies, a pencil, and some money. I was quite surprised by this but there was more to come. I was taken around to each class where they sang me happy birthday and put presents for me in a box. By the end of the day I had a grocery bag of candy, some fruit, money, a pencil, a plastic flower, and many cards. What a great way to celebrate a birthday.
I was immediately reminded of the widow's mite. Here were kids who have hardly anything - many are living in crowded houses, or without electricity, or with very little food - yet they were buying me little birthday presents or putting little bills into my present box. It was very touching that these kids would do such a thing for me. It would have been an actual sacrifice to buy me the sweets or the cookies which is tremendously moving if one thinks about it.
The birthday that was expected to pass quietly, therefore, actually became one of the best birthdays ever.
What Is Canada's Staple Food?
What is Canada's staple food is a question I have been asked many times. People are shocked when I reply that there is no particular staple food in Canada. The same cannot be said for Zambia.
People here love nshima - a thick, maize-based, substance that looks like mashed potatoes but with a much thicker texture. You tear off chunks, roll it into a ball with your hands, and then dip it into a variety of relishes. The relish consists of cabbage, cassava, rape, or any number of other green vegetables and occasionally some tomato. There is usually a meat product with the meal as well. If you are in the lower classes this meat is usually kapenta. These are tiny whole fish that are dried. They taste quite salty and, while I do not enjoy the aftertaste, they are OK in small portions. Then there are slightly bigger fish. These are the worst because you still eat the whole thing but it takes more than one bite. There is nothing worse than getting a jaw bone stuck between your teeth. If you are middle to upper class than the world of meat opens up to you - chicken, beef, and bigger fish. All three are pretty good. Other sides occasionally include eggs or beans (which taste remarkably like pork and beans - they are very good). One time I had impala (a bush animal like deer) and that was a very nice treat.
One thing I have noticed since moving in with my family is that they love to fry everything in large amounts of oil. It seems that everything - especially eggs - is fried in oil. There are also some deep-fried dough things called fritas. These come in small balls and taste really good. At school I usually buy one or two as a snack. It is fortunate that I am getting plenty of exercise or I would have some serious heart problems by year's end.
For the most part the food has been great. With the exception of two stomach incidents in October my stomach has handled the diet pretty well. It is nice to eat with your hands - although I'm pretty messy with it as the grease stains on my pants can testify.
People here love nshima - a thick, maize-based, substance that looks like mashed potatoes but with a much thicker texture. You tear off chunks, roll it into a ball with your hands, and then dip it into a variety of relishes. The relish consists of cabbage, cassava, rape, or any number of other green vegetables and occasionally some tomato. There is usually a meat product with the meal as well. If you are in the lower classes this meat is usually kapenta. These are tiny whole fish that are dried. They taste quite salty and, while I do not enjoy the aftertaste, they are OK in small portions. Then there are slightly bigger fish. These are the worst because you still eat the whole thing but it takes more than one bite. There is nothing worse than getting a jaw bone stuck between your teeth. If you are middle to upper class than the world of meat opens up to you - chicken, beef, and bigger fish. All three are pretty good. Other sides occasionally include eggs or beans (which taste remarkably like pork and beans - they are very good). One time I had impala (a bush animal like deer) and that was a very nice treat.
One thing I have noticed since moving in with my family is that they love to fry everything in large amounts of oil. It seems that everything - especially eggs - is fried in oil. There are also some deep-fried dough things called fritas. These come in small balls and taste really good. At school I usually buy one or two as a snack. It is fortunate that I am getting plenty of exercise or I would have some serious heart problems by year's end.
For the most part the food has been great. With the exception of two stomach incidents in October my stomach has handled the diet pretty well. It is nice to eat with your hands - although I'm pretty messy with it as the grease stains on my pants can testify.
Are You Ready to Rumble?
As many of you know, my move to a host family had been delayed for some time. I have now, however, been living with a host family for over a week and a half and am getting a full taste of Zambian life. In addition to the mother and father there seem to be four guys and two girls although this fluctuates over time. The girls are the daughters of the mother from a previous marriage, while the rest are various relations - grandchildren I think. Since the African understandings of family are different than ours (for example, they call their cousins brother if they have the same last name) it is sometimes hard to decode the relations between people right away.
My host father is a pastor in a local Church of the Nazarene while my host mother is a midwife at the major hospital in town. Some of the kids go to school while two are through school but do not have a job. This means that they help out around the house. Since we don't have running water in the house, one of their major chores is to carry it in from outside for the toilet, bathing, and drinking.
I had known that Zambians watch a lot of TV but it was until I could experience family life fully that I realized how much this statement is true. The TV is usually on before I get home from work and doesn't go off until sometime after I've gone to bed. Popular shows include "Gardener's Daughter" (a Mexican soap opera), "Timeless" (a Filipino soap), and WWE Wrestling. The family loves it - they know all the wrestlers by name and what they have done in the past. Even my host dad, the pastor, swears under his breath at the various moves performed by the wrestlers. My host mom makes comments like "John Cena (the champion) is such a gentleman." I'm not sure if they know that it is actually not real - but I don't really want to be the one to break it to them. At any rate wrestling is part of the daily routine.
I am getting more and more climatized to my situation and am quite comfortable with the family and am used to the daily pattern of events. I hope in the future to be able to do a few more things for myself - such as getting my own bath water maybe. At the same time, however, it has been great to experience the openness and welcoming nature of my family.
My host father is a pastor in a local Church of the Nazarene while my host mother is a midwife at the major hospital in town. Some of the kids go to school while two are through school but do not have a job. This means that they help out around the house. Since we don't have running water in the house, one of their major chores is to carry it in from outside for the toilet, bathing, and drinking.
I had known that Zambians watch a lot of TV but it was until I could experience family life fully that I realized how much this statement is true. The TV is usually on before I get home from work and doesn't go off until sometime after I've gone to bed. Popular shows include "Gardener's Daughter" (a Mexican soap opera), "Timeless" (a Filipino soap), and WWE Wrestling. The family loves it - they know all the wrestlers by name and what they have done in the past. Even my host dad, the pastor, swears under his breath at the various moves performed by the wrestlers. My host mom makes comments like "John Cena (the champion) is such a gentleman." I'm not sure if they know that it is actually not real - but I don't really want to be the one to break it to them. At any rate wrestling is part of the daily routine.
I am getting more and more climatized to my situation and am quite comfortable with the family and am used to the daily pattern of events. I hope in the future to be able to do a few more things for myself - such as getting my own bath water maybe. At the same time, however, it has been great to experience the openness and welcoming nature of my family.
Monday, October 30, 2006
Experiencing Chimwemwe
One of my recent jobs has been to write the reports for MCC's Global Family program about Chimwemwe and Aisha schools. Here are some "sneak-peak" excerpts from the Chimwemwe report.
The school also added Grade 10 this year to allow those who did not get into government schools a chance to continue their education. This was also valuable because many of these students are in vulnerable situations and several are already mothers. Unlike other schools, Chimwemwe encouraged these young mothers to return to school to complete their education.
There are some exciting developments at Chimwemwe this fall. Last report mentioned that MCC had donated some computers for the school. Computer classes have begun for teachers, the deaf class, and Grade 10s, and more students will begin their lessons next term. Teachers have been busy learning computer basics – first typing and now word processing. The deaf class, many of whom are quite young, eagerly await their computer lessons and are delighted by the educational programs they are using. There has also been a very fortunate connection made with a local businessman who will be providing high-speed internet and computer based educational resources to the school as a pilot project. This will be installed shortly and will greatly increase the educational potential of the computers, as well as give the school another income generation activity.
There was also much excitement over the recent Independence Day celebrations. The school held a competition for its students in dancing, singing, modelling traditional costumes, and lip synching. Over 300 kids from the local community attended the six hour extravaganza! Since there are few other recreational opportunities within the compounds, any events that are held are eagerly anticipated.
The next couple of months will be a time of change at Chimwemwe. First the Grade 7s and then the Grade 9s will be writing their national examinations. For many of them this will be their last time at the school – some will do well enough to gain a place at a government school, others will fail and will likely quit school. Festivities such as a football match between the teachers and the Grade 9s and an annual Christmas party will be held to mark the occasion
Excerpts from Report by Chamunji K. Mpundu, Executive Director
Chimwemwe is trying by next year to really improve the conditions of studying of other underprivileged children, specifically the physically disabled and the deaf children. They fall into a program called the Community Deaf and Hard of Hearing Children Concern (CODHAC), an educational programme under
We do not know yet how we are going to support our Global Family sponsored children who are now going to Grade 8, 9, 10, or 11 as our scholarship program can cater for just 20 to 28 children at the lower grades only. The older children need help because otherwise they will end up compromising and get infected with HIV/AIDS and will wallow in deep poverty or become transformed into criminals. Currently, very few children who went to
Experiencing Chimwemwe
“Chimwemwe” is a Nyanjan word meaning happiness after a long period of hardship. When the Biblical Israelites wandered through the desert in hardship until God miraculously provided them with manna, they were experiencing chimwemwe. This seems like an apt metaphor for the school – many children here have had tremendous hardships in their lives but have been given the opportunity to learn.
I had the opportunity to meet with one such family. Laksina Lungu, a widow since 2002, has three children currently sponsored by Global Family – her fourteen year old grandson Chiso Banda (a double orphan since 2005), and her thirteen and twelve year old daughters Dothy and Grace Mwale – all of whom are currently in Grade Four. She is currently taking care of fifteen children, some of whom are her own, and others her grandchildren (five of her children have died). Some of these have dropped out of school while others, such as Moses (age 12), have had their education interrupted due to family tragedies and lack of funds. The family has very little income except for small amounts made by Laksina in a small home-based business. Fortunately, Laksina’s husband had built a house before his death so they are not paying rent, but the family’s income is barely enough for food, let alone education.
Life is tough for these kids, particularly the girls. The house has no water so all have to fetch water every day. This involves loading several twenty litre jugs into a wheelbarrow, waiting in the queue at the communal tap, and then carefully hauling the water back home. The girls also have to cook, wash dishes, and take care of the younger children. Grace also says that she is up before sunrise to sweep the house before school. As is typical in Zambian society, Chiso is responsible for far less housework than his female cousins.
The children are all eager to learn at school. All the children identified reading as one of their favourite parts of school. They also enjoy typical childhood activities – playing sports and reading books. Chiso aspires to be a doctor, Dothy a teacher, and Grace a nurse. Laksina has more modest goals; she just hopes that with the education the children are receiving they will be able to support her when she is older. Certainly, the Global Family sponsorships have allowed some hope for the future, some sense of “chimwemwe” in an otherwise difficult situation.
Saturday, October 21, 2006
COSAFA Champions!
After recent attending the Zambia vs South Africa football match I was hooked. I knew that I needed to see all the Chipolopolo boys matches that were in town. It was just my luck that this weekend again there was another match - this time the COSAFA Cup final between Zambia and Angola. The COSAFA Cup is an annual competition between nations like Angola, South Africa, Namibia, Lesotho, Swaziland, Madagascar, Seychelles, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Zambia, Botswana, Malawi, and maybe a couple of more.
There had been a lot of fear among the folks here –Angola Angola
Contrary to the predictions of most,Zambia Zambia Zambia
There had been a lot of fear among the folks here –
Contrary to the predictions of most,
The walk home was an experience in itself. Of the hour long walk home, probably forty minutes were spent walking by kids waving branches, singing songs, and chanting “
One interesting element of the football match and the party afterwards was the political overtones associated with the celebrations. The raised fist – which I had assumed was related to black power – is actually the symbol for the Patriotic Front political party. The street celebrations included rowing motions (to go along with their motto “get on the boat”) and people shouting Pabwato – Bemba for we are on the boat now. The symbols used to celebrate this victory for the nation are the same as they use to campaign for a political party that is, while incredibly popular in the city, a minority nationwide.
Thursday, October 19, 2006
After School Activities
Canadian kids are used to numerous extracurricular activities. Whether it is music, sports, drama, yearbook making, or any number of possibilities, many students are involved in at least something. I know, for myself, that it was these activities, particularly in high school, that form some of the best memories.
Zambian students do not always get these opportunities. At community schools, since the teachers are not paid a salary anyway, it takes particularly devoted individuals to dedicate their time to after school activities. So there are not many activities for kids to participate in after school. They, too, have obligations: younger siblings to take care of, food to cook, and houses to clean. Yet, if my experience thus far has been any indication, there is an insatiable appetite for any activity one can offer.
I have been able to start up three after school programs and join in on a fourth. At Chimwemwe School I have started Wednesday afternoon football. By the second week there were 60 kids who wanted to play and so we had to divide into two matches. A couple of girls asked me if they could play sometime too so I was trying to have girls football on Fridays but this has not really worked out. Once girls go home they have all kinds of duties to take care of (unlike the boys) so they can't really come back to school to play.
I have also been helping out with the Chimwemwe Anti-AIDS Club. Right now they are preparing poetry and songs for the upcoming Independence Day celebration. This has thrust me into the role of drama and choir director. They are a great group of kids and we have lots of fun.
There is a special event happening at Chimwemwe next Tuesday in honour of Independence Day. The "Miss Chimwemwe Competition" will feature dancing, modeling (both western and traditional), singing, poetry, and miming. Yes, miming. Every day after school there are kids practicing their dance moves or the proper model strut, usually to blaring western R & B. It is actually quite funny. The practices draw quite a crowd as well - usually kids stand several deep around the windows to try and get a glimpse of the action while the Deputy Headmaster has to fight them off with a stick.
At Aisha School, I could see no evidence of activities of any kind. I think that there might be an anti-AIDS club there too but, since I am only there twice a week, I am liable to miss some things. On Tuesdays now we have Bible club. This is really a combination of a short Bible lesson followed up with a semi-related activity. The first week we played some games ostensibly about "making choices." This past week we drew pictures of the differences between seeking power and wanting to help others. The kids lit up when I pulled out the crayons and told them we were going to draw. So this group is also going very well. And finally, on Thursdays we have Chess club. Chess is a very popular game in Zambia and, since the pieces are easy to come by, it seemed like an easy club to start.
That is the sum of my extracurricular activities - usually 3 or 4 days per week I get to do something outside of class. This is great for me because it gives me a chance to meet the kids and interact with them in a setting outside of classes and I hope that it is great for them as well - giving them an opportunity to participate in a slightly structured activity with their friends.
Zambian students do not always get these opportunities. At community schools, since the teachers are not paid a salary anyway, it takes particularly devoted individuals to dedicate their time to after school activities. So there are not many activities for kids to participate in after school. They, too, have obligations: younger siblings to take care of, food to cook, and houses to clean. Yet, if my experience thus far has been any indication, there is an insatiable appetite for any activity one can offer.
I have been able to start up three after school programs and join in on a fourth. At Chimwemwe School I have started Wednesday afternoon football. By the second week there were 60 kids who wanted to play and so we had to divide into two matches. A couple of girls asked me if they could play sometime too so I was trying to have girls football on Fridays but this has not really worked out. Once girls go home they have all kinds of duties to take care of (unlike the boys) so they can't really come back to school to play.
I have also been helping out with the Chimwemwe Anti-AIDS Club. Right now they are preparing poetry and songs for the upcoming Independence Day celebration. This has thrust me into the role of drama and choir director. They are a great group of kids and we have lots of fun.
There is a special event happening at Chimwemwe next Tuesday in honour of Independence Day. The "Miss Chimwemwe Competition" will feature dancing, modeling (both western and traditional), singing, poetry, and miming. Yes, miming. Every day after school there are kids practicing their dance moves or the proper model strut, usually to blaring western R & B. It is actually quite funny. The practices draw quite a crowd as well - usually kids stand several deep around the windows to try and get a glimpse of the action while the Deputy Headmaster has to fight them off with a stick.
At Aisha School, I could see no evidence of activities of any kind. I think that there might be an anti-AIDS club there too but, since I am only there twice a week, I am liable to miss some things. On Tuesdays now we have Bible club. This is really a combination of a short Bible lesson followed up with a semi-related activity. The first week we played some games ostensibly about "making choices." This past week we drew pictures of the differences between seeking power and wanting to help others. The kids lit up when I pulled out the crayons and told them we were going to draw. So this group is also going very well. And finally, on Thursdays we have Chess club. Chess is a very popular game in Zambia and, since the pieces are easy to come by, it seemed like an easy club to start.
That is the sum of my extracurricular activities - usually 3 or 4 days per week I get to do something outside of class. This is great for me because it gives me a chance to meet the kids and interact with them in a setting outside of classes and I hope that it is great for them as well - giving them an opportunity to participate in a slightly structured activity with their friends.
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
Zambians Love Respect
"I work hard all day but all I really want is some respect," says the voice from the TV. The "respect" that they are talking about is not the type normally associated with dignity or being appreciated. Rather, it is "Respect," the local beer which is also known more commonly as "chibuku" or "shake-shake."
One of Zambia's most apparent problems is alcohol. Since the compounds are full of young, unemployed men and have no recreational opportunities for them to pursue, they all congregate at the bars, or "tarvens" (a common Zambian misspelling), to drink the days away. By the time I am travelling to work at 8:00, the bars have been open for several hours and there are already many people drunk. By the time I knock off (leave work) at 17:15 this number has only increased. Fairly frequently, especially near the weekend, I see the large chibuku trucks - with tanks full of alcohol for that weekend's consumption - unloading their cargo.
The heavy drinking is also a large contributing factor in election or football inspired rioting. Certainly, this is not a problem in Zambia alone (just think of the Whyte Avenue riots in Edmonton this spring). Anywhere that there are large numbers of young men and the alcohol flows freely it does not take much to spark a problem, especially when they do not have much to lose in the first place.
Many Zambians recognize this as a problem. Some churches, including the BIC church, are strongly anti-alcohol. In the city, however, the problem does not seem to be alcohol consumption, it seems that this is merely a symptom of larger problems. When there is high unemployment and no alternative recreation for youth, they feel that there is nothing to do but go to the bar. Also, many of the bars are owned by influential people, including local politicians, who have little incentive to limit hours, consumption, or provide alternatives to their services. So it seems that alcohol consumption is a problem that will not be going away anytime soon. After all, who doesn't want a little respect?
One of Zambia's most apparent problems is alcohol. Since the compounds are full of young, unemployed men and have no recreational opportunities for them to pursue, they all congregate at the bars, or "tarvens" (a common Zambian misspelling), to drink the days away. By the time I am travelling to work at 8:00, the bars have been open for several hours and there are already many people drunk. By the time I knock off (leave work) at 17:15 this number has only increased. Fairly frequently, especially near the weekend, I see the large chibuku trucks - with tanks full of alcohol for that weekend's consumption - unloading their cargo.
The heavy drinking is also a large contributing factor in election or football inspired rioting. Certainly, this is not a problem in Zambia alone (just think of the Whyte Avenue riots in Edmonton this spring). Anywhere that there are large numbers of young men and the alcohol flows freely it does not take much to spark a problem, especially when they do not have much to lose in the first place.
Many Zambians recognize this as a problem. Some churches, including the BIC church, are strongly anti-alcohol. In the city, however, the problem does not seem to be alcohol consumption, it seems that this is merely a symptom of larger problems. When there is high unemployment and no alternative recreation for youth, they feel that there is nothing to do but go to the bar. Also, many of the bars are owned by influential people, including local politicians, who have little incentive to limit hours, consumption, or provide alternatives to their services. So it seems that alcohol consumption is a problem that will not be going away anytime soon. After all, who doesn't want a little respect?
Muzungu, how are you?
"Muzungu, how are you?" How many times have I heard that question. Every day as I ride my bike to school my presence creates huge excitement among the kids enroute. This is lots of fun, both for me and for them. I almost always respond - sometimes in Nyanja, the local language, which causes extra delight - and it feels nice that my existence is recognized, even if it as a generic white guy. Indeed, on the odd day when there are very few "muzungu, muzungu" calls I feel a little lonely - how come no one saw me today?
There are certain parts of Lusaka where being a white man is not a big deal - for example, Manda Hill or Arcades, the two major "western" shopping centres have the same racial mix as in many urban North American cities. When one ventures off the traditional expat path, however, and enters the compound, the excitement begins.
I am not sure what this excitement can be attributed to. I hardly saw any black people growing up, but did not run out the street yelling and waving when I did. I am told that part of it is competition - if one kid gets a response than the other kids all have to get one as well and, usually, I am more than happy to oblige.
Some areas have a greater muzungu fetish than others. There is one road I call "Muzungu Alley." I often feel like the Pied Piper on that road because I usually end up with several kids following me as I walk or ride along. Some trails that I take everyday are still full of "muzungu, muzungu" calls.
So this "muzungu" phenomenon is something that I have enjoyed so far. Maybe it will become tiring some day, but it hasn't reached that point yet. Since this semi-celebrity status will continue throughout the year, I'm sure, it is probably a good thing that I enjoy it!
There are certain parts of Lusaka where being a white man is not a big deal - for example, Manda Hill or Arcades, the two major "western" shopping centres have the same racial mix as in many urban North American cities. When one ventures off the traditional expat path, however, and enters the compound, the excitement begins.
I am not sure what this excitement can be attributed to. I hardly saw any black people growing up, but did not run out the street yelling and waving when I did. I am told that part of it is competition - if one kid gets a response than the other kids all have to get one as well and, usually, I am more than happy to oblige.
Some areas have a greater muzungu fetish than others. There is one road I call "Muzungu Alley." I often feel like the Pied Piper on that road because I usually end up with several kids following me as I walk or ride along. Some trails that I take everyday are still full of "muzungu, muzungu" calls.
So this "muzungu" phenomenon is something that I have enjoyed so far. Maybe it will become tiring some day, but it hasn't reached that point yet. Since this semi-celebrity status will continue throughout the year, I'm sure, it is probably a good thing that I enjoy it!
Sunday, October 15, 2006
On Zambian Television
The Zambian media, and most particularly its television industry, is a peculiar affair. There are two major stations: the publicly owned Zambian National Broadcasting Corporation (ZNBC) and the private MUVI-TV (I have no idea if this acronym stands for anything). For those without access to South African satellite dishes, such as myself and the people of the compounds, these two stations are the sum total of television in Zambia
The television news has also been an interesting experience. For one, North American media has different standards when it comes to what it is appropriate to display on TV. For example, when a man committed suicide by jumping off the ZNBC transmission tower the whole event was replayed on the evening news, including shots of him jumping off the tower and crumpled on the ground with blood oozing from his head. Or, when the story was about a woman succumbing to injuries sustained from a fire, the accompanying image was of the horribly burnt woman squirming in agony in a hospital bed.
So there you have it. A brief description of an overwhelmingly popular form of media here in
Is That a Prairie Province?
One of the strangest surprises I found soon after my arrival was the geographical knowledge of
I know that it is too easy to bring up an example of a stereotypical American, but as a matter of comparison this is unfortunately necessary. I met a middle-aged fellow from
Tuesday, October 10, 2006
Unplanned Suburbs
In a course I took last year on Canadian Social History, I had the opportunity to read a book by Richard Harris on the development of
Fast forward now to twenty-first century
This observation is not to suggest that
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