Celebrating Christmas

November 25 may be a month away from the actual day, but it was the day that Chimwemwe School held its annual Christmas party this year. For the last several years a group of Japanese JICA workers has been helping put on the event in cooperation with the school resulting in a bizarre mix of cultures but lots of food and fun for all.

To start off the party a Japanese woman with a Micky Mouse puppet on one hand and a Minnie Mouse puppet on the other hand welcomed the kids. The kids had no clue who the strange mice were so that required a little explanation. Then the visitors introduced themselves - there were about ten of them in all - and attempted a few Nyanjan words. I'm sure my Nyanjan is just as bad as theirs but, while I have a Canadian accent they have a Japanese one, which was strange to hear.

The kids at school had numerous entertainment acts prepared - some dancing (including the regular feature of little girls gyrating, although it wasn't nearly as bad as during the Independence Day celebrations), some poetry, and some singing. Kids from Grade One up to Grade Six all presented their features. Then some of the Japanese kids wowed the audience with a karate demonstration before bringing some of the Chimwemwe kids up to the front to try it out.

Upon the completion of the karate lesson we moved on to my favourite part - cake. There was enough for me to have a couple of pieces. What a deal!! After a few more entertainment numbers it was then the moment all the kids had been waiting for...presents.

These presents were brought in by none other than a Japanese Santa Claus and a Japanese person in a pig costume. I got a really good picture of this one. I'm not quite sure the connection between the pig and Christmas. It is possible that this was the only costume they had. Or, perhaps, since the nose was red and Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer was playing over the loud speakers there was a connection in this way. Whatever the explanation, these two proceeded to give every kid a present and some sweets. The presents were a wide variety of things - stuffed animals, little toy handbags, toy guns, books, games, etc. They seemed to be of the gently used variety. The day ended with a little jump rope before the kids helped clean up the mess made by the partying.

The Japanese visitors were really friendly and even offered me a ride home all the way to Woodlands. Since my stomach was sub-par that day, this was gladly accepted. It seemed like there was a bit of an expatriate connection even though we are expats of very different countries. In this small way there was a shared experience even though we came from the far corners of the globe.

Thank You Japan

Before coming here I had read the Japan had an abysmal record on foreign aid. Thus, its promise last year to double aid to Africa meant nothing because it hardly gave anything to begin with. Zambia, however, appears to be an exception to this rule as Japanese aid has been very visible throughout my stay here and, in fact, benefits me every day.

First, I would like to thank Japan for its infrastructure program that put in K29 billion ($7.25 million US) to repair six major roads around the city. These take me to both schools that I work at - making it possible to glide across fresh tarmac for much of the way instead of bouncing along bumpy potholed roads. Sure, the money went to pay a Japanese company to build the roads but the people being paid to build them were Zambians and the result is a road that will help decongest other roads and allow greater access to town for the people of the compound. Every morning on my bike ride to work I say a big thank you to the Japanese people.

Second, I have seen numerous other JICA (Japanese International Cooperation Agency) projects in the city. Schools are built and boreholes are dug. Once again, thank you Japan.

Thirdly, there is the annual Christmas party at Chimwemwe School which has been discussed in this blog. Thank you Japan.

Finally, I got a ride home from the Christmas party with some Japanese people. Another big plus.

My experience with Japanese foreign aid, therefore, seems to be different than the impression I had before arrival. In comparison, CIDA has been pretty quiet. I have seen that they helped the Zambian Red Cross with some project but that is the only evidence of their work I have seen. It is quite possible that they are working elsewhere in the country, but in Lusaka there is next to nothing from Canada, at least that I've seen.

My Favourite Places

The following is a list of some of my favourite places to visit in the city in no particular order.

1. UNZA - The University of Zambia has hideously ugly concrete buildings but the scenery at the front of the campus is spectacular. Around two man-made ponds there are large trees and green grass that result in a quiet, shady, and beautiful place to relax or work. I stopped there last week to do some marking and I think I will make it a regular part of my routine. There are also some cows there - must be from the Faculty of Agriculture - which are by far the best looking cows I've seen. Augustana should get some cows - they can mow the grass and maintain their status as the "rural" university.

2. Chipata - I feel at home in the chaotic environment of this compound through which I travel every day on the way to work. There are so many sights, sounds, and smells that there is always something to keep my attention.

3. Independence Stadium - The site of the two national team matches I went to. The emotion and excitement of the Zambian crowd are definitely highlights so far.

4. North of Ng'ombe - During my last days at the CRs house we went on a short bike ride north of town. Very quickly one gets into agricultural country - small farms growing a variety of produce. There is a little creek valley that is abundantly rich because of all the phosphates coming from the city (thank goodness for pollution) and so is wonderfully green and lush.

5. Town - I haven't had too many opportunities to explore down town or simply "town" as it is called here but what I have seen is also a cacophony of a variety of salesmen hawking their wares, markets, shops, and more sights and sounds so there is always something new to see there.

There is a small list. I'm sure I will add more later on at some point.

Urban Agriculture

One of the challenges during my first few nights in Zambia was to avoid being woken by the numerous roosters who seemed to be crowing in close vicinity to my bedroom. Just because Lusaka is a city of 2 million people does not mean that agricultural activities do not take place. Indeed, they are essential for assisting the incomes of many residents, particularly in the compounds.

A variety of livestock are kept, although chickens are most popular. Every day I see countless chickens which, I presume, provide the eggs that are available at the market for K500 (12 cents) a piece. I have also seen a few goats and at school for awhile guinea pigs were being raised. Apparently, consuming guinea pig is good for some sort of ailment, but I have yet to be offered it. Unfortunately the guinea pigs were stolen, thus ending that project.

Now that rainy season is coming, it also means that it is time to grow maize. Every spare plot of land - even if it just a few meters wide - has been transformed into a cultivated field ready to plant with maize. I guess every little bit helps. There are some fairly large open spaces in parts of the city, especially around the university, which have been transformed into these tiny plots, but people also put in a crop wherever they can - along the side of the road, in their yard, etc. It will be nice to moniter the progress of the crops as I make my way to school every day.

Wouldn't it be great to have a chicken or two? Fresh eggs every morning, and then when you want to cull part of your flock, a wonderful dinner. Seems like a good deal to me.

Let The Rain Begin!

When I tell people that Canada has no rainy season jaws drop almost as much as when I tell them we have no staple food. The four season system might as well be from Mars. I'm told told that November is supposed to be the beginning of the rainy season although so far not much has happened. There have been two or three rains that were pretty heavy by my thinking but, according to the locals, they were not "good" rains. I'm wondering what kind of sustained down pour qualifies as a "good" rain. The wonderful thing about the rains is that everything cools down to quite a comfortable temperature and, if the rain happens at night, I'm not inconvenienced in the least. The downside, of course, is the potential for getting soaked on a long bike ride home. So far this hasn't happened, but I'm guessing it is only a matter of time.

The weather for the first couple of months here was amazing. I think the temperature was in the mid to high 20s everyday and cooled off nicely at night. Every day was sunny and warm. I never even had to think of if I should be preparing for adverse weather - it just never came. October and November are the "hot" months and I am very glad to be coming to the end of them. Temperatures in the high 30s were not uncommon. I would sit in my room and sweat would be pouring from my face. Not a pleasant experience to say the least. I guess that is why people like the rains so much. After every rain the temperature is really quite moderate. A good thing, considering that wearing shorts outside of the home is taboo, and work clothes are always fairly formal.

The rains appear to have picked up now. We had a little yesterday morning, and again in the night. The clouds currently threaten more rains - enough so that I left the bike at home today. I hope we get a really good dousing soon so I can experience what is meant by the "good rains."

Back on the Bus

One of the results of moving farther away from my workplaces has been a vast increase in my use of the local bus "system." Bussing here is done by privately run minibusses which are refurbished vans from Japan that are painted blue and white, and the seats are rearranged so that they can fit 15 or so passengers (4 across per row), the driver, and the "conductor." The conditions are almost always cramped (which also means that it gets hot quickly), but are usually not uncomfortable. I've sat in a couple of situations where I had a metal bar in the seat behind me digging into my back, but this is the exception rather than the rule. It really depends on the quality of the bus - some are practically falling apart, others are brand new. I've also grown in my minibus IQ so I now know that there are certain places to sit and certain places to try not to sit.

The minibusses technically have set stops while they are on the main road but when they are in the compound they will stop anywhere to pick up, or drop off, a passenger. They want your business so they will stop and wait for you if need be, or reverse down a hill to pick you up. Generally, they wait till they fill up to leave the first stop. This means that if you are the first one there and it is not a busy time you can be in for quite a wait. During peak hours this is not a problem. If they don't fill up then they will slowly progress trying to pick up passengers along the way. It is the job of the conductor, also known by a less glorious name of "call boy" to get people to get on the bus - either by running around yelling out the destination, waving and whistling at people, helping them with their stuff, etc. When they fill up, however, these busses fly (the drivers can be pretty crazy, although this is appreciated by a passenger such as myself during rush hour log jams). The scheduled stops are few enough, and the number of passengers small enough that, unlike Winnipeg public transit, one does not have to stop every 200m down the road to pick up or drop off a passenger.

A couple of days after I arrived at my host family they bought a minibus. It runs 6 days a week from 6:00 up to 20:00. They have a driver (the thought of someone doing six 14 hour days behind the wheel is slightly unnerving, particularly when one considers that there are countless others doing the same thing). Apparently the bus should pay for itself with a year as long as it has no major mechanical problems.

On the whole I appreciate the bus system here. It is generally quick, it gives an opportunity to interact with people, I have been able to sit beside a live chicken on one trip (trying pulling that in Winnipeg!), and since people want your business they are willing to go above and beyond to get you on board. This last point can also be a bit of a hassle, along with the occasional slow trips on an empty bus constantly trying to pick up passengers or the uncomfort that sometimes accompanies the cramped conditions of sitting four to a row of a narrow bus. Minibusses, however, represent another essential aspect of Lusaka life.

For Sale

For those who like shopping (in other words, not me) there are several different options available in the city of Lusaka. For those with western tastes there are two American-style shopping malls stocked with South African stores providing quality goods at high prices. There are a few other smaller centres scattered throughout the city where one can expect to pay a premium for the privilege of shopping where 90% of the city cannot afford to.

Then there are the markets, which once again have a variety of levels. Almost anything can be obtained at a market and, usually, for significantly better rates than one would find at the aforementioned shopping centres. For example, photocopying at a western style internet cafe costs K400 per page, whereas performing the same task in a compound will set one back only K200 per page.

There are also a scattering of small shops. Since the unemployment rate is astronomical many people have resorted to buying goods in bulk and then selling them off one at a time. This includes eggs (although often people keep chickens), laundry soap, vegetables, sweets, biscuits (cookies), etc. There is also a booming market in cell phone talk time since all the cell phone networks are prepaid (you have to buy talk time before you can make calls). The result is employment for thousands selling the little cards you need - which are as small as K5000 ($1.25) - to top up your phone.

Finally, there is a third section of the economy. Things you can buy on the side of the road. Among the most popular roadside attractions are carpenters selling beds, desks, chairs, etc. Rocks and sand for cement are also a common sight. There are also people hawking newspapers, vegetables and a variety of trinkets including Monopoly board games,
whistles, hats, cigarettes, and even live puppies who come to your window when you stop at a red light.

The fundamental difference between the Canadian and Zambian employment scene it seems is that Zambians have been forced to find ingenious methods of supporting themselves commercially. They will likely only earn a few dollars in a day but this will be enough to at least put some nshima on the table that evening. And since there is no social security of a government-run kind (although the extended family often helps in dire situations) if you don't work you don't eat.

Holiness Unto the Lord

Since my host father is a pastor of a Church of the Nazarene congregation, this is where I have been attending church for the last couple of weeks and, presumably, will continue to do so for the rest of the year. The congregation itself is comfortably small - less than 100 - and the singing is of high quality. I have noticed this among most of the churches I have been to (with a couple of notable exceptions) here. I guess music is one thing that Mennonites and Africans have in common.

The building itself is just finished so the cement bricks are still visible and there is no glass in the windows yet. The latter makes the facility much more comfortable as it actually allows for breeze to flow through the sanctuary. The former appeals to my inner-Calvinist. The church is bare except for some cloth hangings at the front and the banner reading "Holiness Unto the Lord." Instead of pews we have hard wooden benches supported by concrete blocks. I appreciate the idea of such seating - the plainness seems to have a certain connection with Jesus's own simple life as a carpenter - but after a three hour service the practical aspect of such seating begins to wear on me.

Perhaps most surprising is that men and women sit on different sides of the church. I didn't know that this was something that was still practiced outside small enclaves. Women seem to participate relatively equally in the church (well, at least as equally as one can expect in Zambian society) so I guess a theory of "separate but equal" is at work.

Services run from about 9:00 up to 12:30ish. First, an hour or more of Sunday School - basically an interactive sermon. Then, an hour or so of music. This consists of congregational singing which is sometimes done out of a book (so at least I can sing along moderately well) and then sometimes for memory (in which case I'm left trying to sound out the syllables). Then is "special music." This consists of individuals who come up to lead a song of their choosing. Sometimes this has been well rehearsed and is very good; at other times this is not the case. Finally, there is the choir which is very good and has a very entertaining director. At the end is the sermon - usually about an hour or so - by which point I'm squirming a little from the plank beneath me. It is challenging to pay attention throughout because probably 90% of it is done in Nyanja or Bemba. With Nyanja at least I can pick up a few words in a minute - with Bemba my comprehension is pretty much zip. Hopefully as the year goes on I will be able to understand a little bit more.

The Widow's Mite

November 8 is always a great day for me. It seems like every birthday goes well, regardless of other circumstances. This year, however, I was unsure of what was going to happen. Only one Zambian knew that it was my birthday so I assumed that the day would pass quietly and that the only celebration would be a dinner in the evening with my MCC Country Reps. I could not have been more wrong.

As soon as I arrived at school, hot and sweaty from my bike ride I might add, the Grades 3s and 4s poured out off their classroom to sing me happy birthday. They must have sang the song five or six times and then a few of the came up to give me presents - cookies, a pencil, and some money. I was quite surprised by this but there was more to come. I was taken around to each class where they sang me happy birthday and put presents for me in a box. By the end of the day I had a grocery bag of candy, some fruit, money, a pencil, a plastic flower, and many cards. What a great way to celebrate a birthday.

I was immediately reminded of the widow's mite. Here were kids who have hardly anything - many are living in crowded houses, or without electricity, or with very little food - yet they were buying me little birthday presents or putting little bills into my present box. It was very touching that these kids would do such a thing for me. It would have been an actual sacrifice to buy me the sweets or the cookies which is tremendously moving if one thinks about it.

The birthday that was expected to pass quietly, therefore, actually became one of the best birthdays ever.

What Is Canada's Staple Food?

What is Canada's staple food is a question I have been asked many times. People are shocked when I reply that there is no particular staple food in Canada. The same cannot be said for Zambia.

People here love nshima - a thick, maize-based, substance that looks like mashed potatoes but with a much thicker texture. You tear off chunks, roll it into a ball with your hands, and then dip it into a variety of relishes. The relish consists of cabbage, cassava, rape, or any number of other green vegetables and occasionally some tomato. There is usually a meat product with the meal as well. If you are in the lower classes this meat is usually kapenta. These are tiny whole fish that are dried. They taste quite salty and, while I do not enjoy the aftertaste, they are OK in small portions. Then there are slightly bigger fish. These are the worst because you still eat the whole thing but it takes more than one bite. There is nothing worse than getting a jaw bone stuck between your teeth. If you are middle to upper class than the world of meat opens up to you - chicken, beef, and bigger fish. All three are pretty good. Other sides occasionally include eggs or beans (which taste remarkably like pork and beans - they are very good). One time I had impala (a bush animal like deer) and that was a very nice treat.

One thing I have noticed since moving in with my family is that they love to fry everything in large amounts of oil. It seems that everything - especially eggs - is fried in oil. There are also some deep-fried dough things called fritas. These come in small balls and taste really good. At school I usually buy one or two as a snack. It is fortunate that I am getting plenty of exercise or I would have some serious heart problems by year's end.

For the most part the food has been great. With the exception of two stomach incidents in October my stomach has handled the diet pretty well. It is nice to eat with your hands - although I'm pretty messy with it as the grease stains on my pants can testify.

Are You Ready to Rumble?

As many of you know, my move to a host family had been delayed for some time. I have now, however, been living with a host family for over a week and a half and am getting a full taste of Zambian life. In addition to the mother and father there seem to be four guys and two girls although this fluctuates over time. The girls are the daughters of the mother from a previous marriage, while the rest are various relations - grandchildren I think. Since the African understandings of family are different than ours (for example, they call their cousins brother if they have the same last name) it is sometimes hard to decode the relations between people right away.

My host father is a pastor in a local Church of the Nazarene while my host mother is a midwife at the major hospital in town. Some of the kids go to school while two are through school but do not have a job. This means that they help out around the house. Since we don't have running water in the house, one of their major chores is to carry it in from outside for the toilet, bathing, and drinking.

I had known that Zambians watch a lot of TV but it was until I could experience family life fully that I realized how much this statement is true. The TV is usually on before I get home from work and doesn't go off until sometime after I've gone to bed. Popular shows include "Gardener's Daughter" (a Mexican soap opera), "Timeless" (a Filipino soap), and WWE Wrestling. The family loves it - they know all the wrestlers by name and what they have done in the past. Even my host dad, the pastor, swears under his breath at the various moves performed by the wrestlers. My host mom makes comments like "John Cena (the champion) is such a gentleman." I'm not sure if they know that it is actually not real - but I don't really want to be the one to break it to them. At any rate wrestling is part of the daily routine.

I am getting more and more climatized to my situation and am quite comfortable with the family and am used to the daily pattern of events. I hope in the future to be able to do a few more things for myself - such as getting my own bath water maybe. At the same time, however, it has been great to experience the openness and welcoming nature of my family.